ytzvrt

i have a spa manifold and my car is from the states lhd. im probably the only one to have this set up but been boosting and no cracks or problems. with the lifetime, how could you go wrong

anybody??? well no pcv for a vr6 means oil through the valve guides. I inquired about it with several mechanics, and they absolutely agree. Gonna give it a shot. thanks all again

not sure what you mean, "how it goes to the fuse box" I did an 8v to a vr6t conversion and completely redid everything. If your more specific i can certainly help you.

these pistons and rings were brand new from ross racing. I also checked that i put the rings in right side up. with a decreased compression ratio. im now running 8.5:1. i know that has no bearing on this but just wanted you to know which set-up I have.

actually i slid the piston down and pushed the rings closed with my fingers. the piston size to the bore was perefect and i was able to push them down with no struggles or difficulties. i guess i took advantage of the 15 degree difference of the bore to the top of the block and slid the rings in on an angle. again no struggles at all. by the way i tested compression in each cylinder and they all checked out. that is not to say however that i didnt crack aoil retaining ring.

that was one mistake i used mobil1 full synth to rebuild it. I know it will never break in with this oil, so i changed it twice with conventional 5w-30. Im also thinking that since the pcv is not being sucked from the valve cover, maybe too much pressure is building up causing oil to be forced through the seals. Maybe if i hook up the exhausting side of the can back to the intake it would be more balanced to regulate pressure.

Ok well the oil catch can doesnt even have a drip of oil in it. I did not do a compression test yet, i guess i should. Although this engine only has 200 miles on it, I was thinking that the rings might have not seated yet, which to alot of people: they think I should just drive it and let a little more time tell

Hello everyone, I just recently finished my obd1 vrt. she runs great, with no mechanical issues, and the turbo pulls very well. When i rebuilt this motor i did everything from pistons and rings to valve guide seals and bearings. Everything was replaced. However, I noticed the other day that when i switch gears (let go of the throttle) the engine exhausts a blue smoke, which to me is definitely oil. This does not happen during acceleration or idling, so i believe the rings are ok. I know valve guide seals can do this, but mine are brand new. I have come to my own conclusion that when i fabricat

its also an obd1 so i may have the engine speed wire mated to the wrong wire at the ecu. thank you for your help

sounds like the solenoid from the avcr. it also will spike as i rev it and wont pass 1 pound of boost. I do have to change the plugs though.

Just finished my obd 1 vr6t. have a t3-04 turbo. Just started it up the other day, for the first time, and it idles smooth and reves decent. my concern is the poping noise coming from under the hood. I do have a c2 1.5 chip and an avcr boost controller, could i have this hooked up wrong or maybe the wrong plugs? Boost spikes and the avcr controller reads full throttle all the time.

Hey all, which diverter valve should i use for an obd 1 vr6 turbo application?

Can someone help me? I have an obd1 coil setup. I have low compression pistons, new bearings, arp bolts around the house, so she strong. I want 400 hp, without going standalone. I've only heard that C2 doesn't make a chip for this ecu because it is not stable enough. what should I do?

Im having the same issue.I have an obd1 coil, and want 400 horses. but am limited to c2's version turbo chip for 350 hp. Unless I get my ecu re-mapped, I can't achieve it unless I go standalone.

If you want 400hp, your gonna need stand alone, obd1 isnt stable enough to handle that much. Although there is one person on here who got his ecu re-mapped and is running 400hp.