dubdub

I recently replaced mine. If you order just the thermo housing you may find the cover from your original may not fit exactly due to some age warping. I found this out some weeks ago, so I replaced the whole lot, building it up first (dry run) Then stripped and re-assumbled with sealant of course. Pay great attension to cleaning the head face as this is also prone to leakage.

IMO Stay with original. Mines on the original after 11plus!

Give you VIN to a dealer to obtain part number. Then give VIN from another model year. You will have yor answer.

I dunno if these have drybollick tappets. But if it does then they do take a moment to charge up with oil when the engine been stripped down. I know my Subaru did this until I changed to another brand of oil.

My VR is an imported on from Japan. It would be helpfull to know where the code reader is located. The car is a late 95 part OBD1/OBD2. Is it above the ashtray? or beneath auto centre console. Either way I do not want to bust bits off.

This may sound daft. But when you use a trolly jack. Place it on the smoothest concrete you can. This allows the jack to move a bit as the car raises and reduces the chances of flattening or bending the floorpan jack points. The scissor jack cannot move with the car so the sill edges bend as the car goes up.

Try TPS they can be quite good on most bits.

I assume these pulleys are secured vitha woodruff key as well (I could be wrong) If this is the case then it will need to be replaced as well. Also check slot for wear that may have been caused by chatter when pully loose. Lightweight pulleys should be your last consideration as they offer no improvement at all. IMO

This seems to be a common fault with many brands NOT JUST VW.. Point one on image would seem most logical. The sill bending can be caused several ways:- 1/ Poor location by user. 2/ Soft uneven ground like the side of the road. Where you end up when a puncture occurs. If you are one the move and get a flat stay on hard ground. Avoid soggy ground at all costs. Some twisting if the sill edge is inevitable and common with scissor jacks. It does not mean you have a rust bucket. 3/ The third and maybe the worst problem may be excessive corrosion of the sill area. The use of a trolly jack

This seems to have been a year of change for VWs so you could have a bit of a mixture. On the engine side of things it is easy to tell as it will not have coil pack ignition. Just a distributer. Umpteen other difs also.

Rust? what rust? My mk 3 VR is rust free! I have had both mk 2 and mk3 variants. I found both the a bit tutonic but screwed together well. The mk 1 seemed to atract more rust due to drainage problems so I never bought one. I well recall the arival of the mk3 but it felt overweight and underpowered in the petrol form so I bought a new tdi model reg N10 0LF. I could get over 70mpg on a run ! So if you have it . I was The 1st keeper. When the VR came out it was like a breath of fresh air and went like the clappers. The one a have at present is without doubt good fun. Pity it only does about 33

Mine runs at a tad past centre with new stat and rest of trimmings. It does sound as if stat is opening a bit early which is better than a bit late. Keep an eye on coolant level though. Sorry if I double posted.

Mine runs at a tad past contre with new stat and rest of trimmings. It does sound as if stat is opening a bit early which is better than a bit late. Keep an eye on coolant level though.

Just noticed my high level brake light is in extenal foil instead of glass. Why...when?