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andrew mouganie

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Everything posted by andrew mouganie

  1. changed water temp sendar and over to a new ecu still same problem engine running rough when cold... changed plugs wires injectors... still no luck.
  2. the alarm wont be cheap depending on what you want, i guess around £350 should get you a decent one, as for the HID's 8k is fine you need to get the right fitting bulb, i think H3 and there is a ballast box that is included with the wiring, not that hard to do urself if ur able. The only note is to use decent size wiring cause they draw alot of current, Prices for the lights are around £125 but if u have time u can get them from china (cause they are all made there) for $40...
  3. Ok, came back from holiday, changed a load of thing in my car (neglected for a while) ecu, coil and fuel pump were changed now its a pain in the back to sart when cold. as soon as the oil hits 60C its fine. I get faulty lambda sensor and faulty water temp sensor when i diag but i assume its either the lambda or fuel pump, any ideas?
  4. it will ony smoke if the oil rings are damaged, does ur car use excessive fuel? From the comp test figures i doubt its rings too, im bored if u were a neighbour id strip and rebuild ur engine for some tequila. Good luck bro.
  5. all the bolts are meant to be tightened to a limit, like car torque. u need a torque wrench to do this. try www.volkswagen.msk.ru its in russian but if u have some time u can download anything u need to know about the car. If u are new it helps by giving u a better understanding of the mechanics. The files are in english but the site is russian.
  6. i think i need to try a supercharged one, only tried turbos.... RTFOOI (rev the f**k out of it)
  7. i do not have access to a rolling road mate, i know it drives me insane everytime i change something i have to drive around for hours trying to fine tune the ms. I have cams from 268-292 and a friend has cut 4-5 copies between this. i am on a 280 at the moment. is the schrick head worth it? u should try and get beehive valve springs for ur dub, they are soo hard to find but i reckon the best thing i bought. As for the tuning, i have a 550cid big block chevy s10 thats my mad car i just love the way my vr revvs and i drove a blown one didnt like it much. And never seeing the money again, i know
  8. not really mate, my friend has a Falcon with a roush 350 (5.7) very highly strung. And eveytime he rr's it he seems to gain more power as the engine is run in, this is usually normal to around 10k but he has almost hit 40k.
  9. i know but once i get it blown then what? this way i can get loads of excuses to spend money on my car. I have a g60 and a high strung 1.8T but i prefer revving my vr, its so much more fulfilling. I know im chasing a lost cause but its fun (and the reason my girl left me lol!!)
  10. try checking to see if 2, 4 and 6 hold compression, if it does it rules out head gasket and valve seats as well as rings. Also i would try re-torquing the intake and/or change intake gaskets.
  11. im talking naturally aspirated btw, for those who are mechanically challenged.
  12. Well, i am trying to get to the magic number, 100bhp/litre. I seem to be stuck on 220-230. I thought if we all put our minds together we might have a chance. So far i have done everything possible to my car, ported and polished everythin, custon cams, cai and all that.... Currently there are no other tuning products on the market that can help me. I am in the process of building an intake manifold to equal the runner lengths, with ida style throttle bodies and i have asked a friend to cut me a few cams to see. This will be the third manifold i am fabricating, but my problem here is i doubt a m
  13. mtech 07891328829, assuming u have a laptop and a little time/interest i would give mapping a go. Its in 12x12 format so its not that difficult just takes time for it to be perfect. This way as well u can use the stand alone to its full potential. As it has switchable maps, u could get one done on a rolling road and play with the other urself
  14. well i get mine from mtech, just google them, they are in the uk and provide ready built ms systems, the m3d is good but it gets pricey with the options. Mtech give u a base map and then u can get it to a rolling road to be fine tuned. I dont have access to a rr here so i just annoy the hell out of my mates and make them drive me around for hours.
  15. same here im up to 80k and i thrash the living daylights out of mine. Just treat her like a lady, slowly get her ready before she gets f%$ked. Again there is no replacement for a goot service and always use the best oil possible.
  16. its purges fuel vapour into the engine, as u said for emmision reasons but have no idea how it works, i removed mine and connected the hose from the fuel tank (carrying vapours) direct, and just binned the canister. They start acting up after 100k or so...
  17. try mtechautomotive, vey nice chap. I got a standalone with nitrous control, wideband, launch control, shift light and a few other things for just over 500 quid built and ready to install, u can get them in kit form for cheaper.
  18. try a megasquirt or emerald m3d, they are very good management esp the ms if ur on a budget should be able to get one fitted and tuned for about £1k
  19. u are supposed to peel the film of the transparent plastic piece they give you, i used two red ones behind the transparent one. Ok, move the odometer and trip computer and take apart, remember there are 2 contact strips in each, peel off the protective film of the transparent one and place over the lcd screen, this will turn the display black, then place the two red filters behind. Remember make sure u have good contact for the 2 strips above and below the readout u might have to attempt this a few times befor u get it right.
  20. when u fit the filters there is a contact strip above and below, make sure u trim the filters enough so they do not overlap the contacts if not they will not display their functions properly
  21. bring it over to Ghana, Ill do it for 20 quid... lol
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