Charged VR
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Everything posted by Charged VR
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Dont think the bell housing will even match to your engine but i may be wrong.
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Rebuilt my engine and supercharged it. and i roughly spent around £5,000! Half of that was the Charger kit itself. I went for a full engine rebuild and paid for the enginering work that i couldnt do myself which was quite expensive. I would advise speaking to someone like Storm Devolpments and seeing what they advise with the rebuild. If you want big power then you need to think about lowering the compression and i dont think that a spacer gasket is the best solution, The best way is to buy Pistions but now your getting into mega money!!! I run the Rotrex at 6psi and its awesome, Storm will
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Fair play mate, i would have given up long ago. Hope the future is bright and trouble free!!!!!!
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I would say save for a Charger as i dont think cams will transform your engine as much as you are hoping. Did not Cam mine and have no intention of doing so. I think by the time they have been bought, Fitted and remapped its not wothe the extra 20 max bhp!
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my timing marks don't line up with camshafts!!
Charged VR replied to buttmrt's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
There is a mark on the front crank pulley and that is normally 100%. If you are trying to use the clutch/Flywheel mark then they are poo and dont bother. Just remember to turn it over by hand before you start it and you should be ok. -
What Fault codes came up?
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Hello to all, Myself and a friend are trying to start a monthly meet within the Windsor area or local to it, Will be biased towards the V6 range of VAG, But all are welcome. So far we have a range of R32's and a handful of Mk3 VR's Have yet to decide on which location we will use as there are a few options so will update on that in a few weeks. Would be open to any suggestions anyone has or if anyone would be interested to attend?
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The shine did last for a while, But once done its so easy to run the quick detailer or Gold glass wax round again. Its amazing how much crap the clay block removes from the paintwork. Also the gold class polish goes on clear so it doesn't show up all the stone chips like other polish's
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Have used the Clay block and if used as said, it is the bolox, Never used the 3 Part polishing system, But use the Gold class wax instead which is REALY GOOD!!!! It does take an absolute age to do the clay block properly though, but well worth it. The metal polish is crap though.
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If he doesn't know the engine very well then dont let him near it mate, I spent £500 on Parts alone when i did my Head Gasket and Chains, So would be hidden costs in that quote. Is the breather valve on the Rocker cover to intake pipe spilt? Can you get any pictures of this leak? Head Gasket seems a bit of guess work mate
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You need to remove the Starter motor and support the engine as from memory a bolt goes through the front engine mount
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This is the sort of stuff i can send you, What Year is your VR?
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If you PM me your address will send you everything you will need on saturday
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Maybe able to help with some VW information if interested but would have to post it to you. if not the bently manual is good but over £50 i think.
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Thanks for the response's. Will make it a must
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Hello This will be my firsy visit to this show and was just wondering what was the best day to go? Can only make one day due to work comitments. Anyone got any opions on the show?
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DUB Power leads are top quality aswell mate, The metal plug end caps are longer so its realy easy to remove them without causing any damage. Real nice fit, Just wont fit in the lead rails
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Fantastic conversion, Engine bay looks the 6pot was fiited at factory, Top marks to you all for fitting it, how does it handle?
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Got a wiring digram for you but cant get it on the computer, If you need it then i can post it to you
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I think they go to a relay or fuse, cant remeber off the top of my head, will try and geta wiring diagram for you tomorrow
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What Part of the loom do you need to know about, If i can get one, will a wiring digram help? What year is your car?
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Try disconecting the air mass meter and give it a run, Air mass meters are very common on these and are getting cheaper from VW as always going wrong!
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If oil is leaking from 7 then it should have no real effect on 8. You can never say when or how these items will fail, but they could just weep for years. I would not try and reseal them without replacing them as is not fixing the problem, and as you have to remove the gearbox and flywheel to acsess them is best to replace with new. Best to clean the contact face of the casing and block, also if oil is leaking then a quick jet wash would be a good idea
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Hello Got this picture to help you a litte, The block is shown upside down, The timng casing is number 7 and is sealed to the crankcase using a sealant and number 8 is the rear main oil seal, if oil is leaking from the engine around this area then these are the two main area's to check. As you can see you will need to remove the Gearbox, Clutch and then flywheel to gain acsess to these. And if you remove the timing casing then it would be the best time to replace the chain guides and tensioners. And this is a different setup to a Mk2 and the oil has less chance to contaminate the clutch due to
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if you follow the cable from the throttle valve to the bulkhead you will find a black plastic housing which clips in, if you pull this out you will see how they join together. If you have no throttle cable then look on the bulkhead for a hole around the heater matrix pipe about the size of a 50p. The other end of the throttle cable may have dropped back but you should be able to pull it up again and then connect the two halves