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sacvwgolf

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About sacvwgolf

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  1. I did think they were expensive, looking on the net the standard rod bearings are $73 and the coated they are $139 so thats £40 more for the coated ones, not too bad I'll have to find out how much the RS4 ones are from the dealership...
  2. Hey Kev, whats your opinion on these: Coated rod bearing http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=13975 Coated main bearing http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_85&products_id=952 I never got a reply from HPAmotorsports, are these the same thing?
  3. Pete, if the postage and import tax is expensive maybe its worth going to Strictly Dubs. They are UK distributors for schimmel performance or so they say on their website: http://www.strictlydubs.com/
  4. great bit of info there /\/\
  5. 28 quid..thats not too bad, let me know if you do get a quote
  6. looks the same and weighs almost the same 9.6lbs
  7. would you recomend the cost of the cro-moly over the cost of getting the standard one lightened?
  8. Thanks, I've just emailed them to see if they'll do them by themselves. If they are RS4 or similar does that mean they can be bought from the dealers? If you can comfirm what they are and what engine they are from I'll go to the dealers and get a price if they are avaible.
  9. I saw you mention them bearings in another post, they look good but I bit pricey although I could prob make some money back selling the rod bolts as most conrods come with the arp bolts anyway. I'll have to see what my budget is and try to include them. I'm a fan of overengineering aswell . Lol yeah I was planning on going to around 250 hp and get the engine set up/running pefectly and then go to 4WD and then go 400/500 + in the furtura (I really must learn how to spell that word lol). Looks like I going to have to try and include all three things in the ever inceasing budget. I've already rul
  10. Yeah I'll defo be going rotex, I have a word with the people doing the machining to the block and see what they think
  11. plan is to supercharge it....not a fan of turbos. I would love to try and twin supercharge it but thats something for the futuar (sp?). I know abit about the 02m swap...cutting and repostioning of the gearbox mount, C2 bracket mount etc You think its not worth rebuilding the block I have, I doubt the caps are knacked, but if they were, then is it better to start with a newish block than to buy the steel billet caps and get them machined to fit?
  12. ah ok I just thought about it cause I reckon my orginal caps are knacked.... Yeah its says they require line boring, As for the gearbox I'm gonna go 02M 4WD but I'm not too worried about that yet..just conectraiting on the engine at the mo
  13. thats the thing though...I don't have a target at the mo...but if forced to say it would prob be 500+. I want the engine to be reliable and bullet proof
  14. Hi Guys, I am in the middle of budgeting/planning my vr6 rebuild and when I was working out what was needed/doing research I came across these two things: The Crank scraper: http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-92/Crank-Scraper-VW-VR6/Detail The billet steel main caps: http://www.intengineering.com/Billet-steel-main-caps-p6902834-1-2.html What do you think of these two, are they any good/worth it? Any input would be great. Scott P.S the engine is being built for alot of power (Forced induction)
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