Afondo

Before you go pulling out the gearbox, have you re aligned the selector? There are adjustments at the gear leaver and the selector. If they are not aligned then it wont go in gear easily if at all. Sounds to me like thats your problem. Its not a hard process but can take time to get it right. Google "VR6 shifter alignment" and you will find a how to. Based on what little info you have given I could almost bet that is the problem.

Im gonna get it up on the ramps and have a good look at it to try and find out exactly where its coming from. Once Ive got it identified Ill let you all know.

Suspension is all new, every last bit of it and it did it before the new setup went on too

Yeah Ive changed everything, top mounts & bearings, wishbone bushes, stabilizer bar bushes, engine mounts the lot!! Pretty sure thats where the noise is coming from but Im not 100%. What else could squeak and groan on the front end?

Thanks for the links. So the subframe bushes are the same for all Mk3's then?

The car is making some serious squeaking noises and Im sure its the subframe bushes as they are the only part that hasnt been changed! Does anybody know what the part number is and where I can get some? Ive seen some on ebay but am not sure if they are the same for all Mk3s.. Any ideas? Thanks

Its not for cost reasons that I dont want to lower the compression, would it not be just as counter productive adding a head spacer to a low boost install? For example,the kinetics stage 1 and 2 kits are both designed to run on totally standard engines and there are loads of people who do just that without any issues. I am well aware that a custom turbo setup is not a bolt on and go, no headaches involved system. Just because its a daily driver is not to say its my only car. What you have said basically reads: If you put a turbo setup on your car your going to have endless problems. I dont

So using a T3 turbo with a .82 trim will give me a well balanced setup that kicks in at 3000 rpm? Is this an ideal or is there a better (more recommended) setup? What sort of WHP could i expect to see running 9 psi? Would 32lb injectors with C2 software be the right fueling choice and would I need to add/uprate the fuel pump and or FPR? Would things be that bad without an LSD in the gearbox? Is anybody running this sort of setup with a standard box and clutch and how do you find it? BOV or recirc valve?

I guess this is a simple question, if you know the answer. I dont, thats why Im asking! I have been doing my research reading through build threads both here and on the vortex and have read Mr Bells bible but I do still have questions, so... I have a rebuilt OBD2 engine thats done near 9k over the pasty year. Block, head, all seals, pipes, pumps, radiator, chains, guides, all the sensors, engine & gearbox mounts, forged pistons and loads more. I really dont want to go to the expense of doing it all again so want to do this right!! I want a good setup and know what its going to set me back

Sounds like the beep of death.. Last time I heard it, it cost me shitloads of cash. A noise I would rather never hear again EVER!!! Stop using the car untill you get it checked out.

If you cant start the car with the new chp in place then the chip quite simply doesnt work! In now way does the Clifford alarm code for a spesific ECU. Interchanging WORKING chips or complete ECU units will have no effect on the cars ability to start/run based on the functions of your aftermarket alarm system. If however the new ECU has its own original transponder immobilizer and you dont have the correct key to disactivate it then the car will not run. But being OBD1 it is highly unlikly the ECU has this function so you dont have to wory about that in this case!!

Ok, The condensor is the front radiator (the smaller thinner of the two). The sensor will be screwed in there or into one of the pipes leading to it. you can trace the pipes from the compressor. If the sensor is a two wire unit then you can unplug it and bridge the two wires to test. If it is a 3 wire unit then you will have to check the Bently manual for the test procedure. At any rate if the sensor is the culprit you will loose all the gas from the system when trying to change it. If you do decide to change the sensor yourself, dont let the gas out at high speed but slowly from the charge

Hi all, Just trying to find out the quantitys and types of the different liquids/fluids for the VR6 and put the info all in one place. So, how much and what type of: Break fluid = ? Engine oil = 5.5 lts 10/40 semi synthetic Power steering fluid = ? Engine coolant = ? Thanks...

Dont forget the system has a pressure switch, if its disconnected, faulty or the system is under filled the AC will not engage. I wouldnt reccomend bridging any more pins if you are not 100% certain what is what. If you kill a switch or sensor you will not be happy!! If your mate is an autosparky then just get him to check it. Right now its probably something small, most probably the pressure sensor. Really not worth trying to fix it if your not certain about what you are doing. I hope I dont sound like a cnut but it will be more expensive in the long run if you cook something blindly bridging

While the car is off the road for its re-build and the gearbox is already out, is there any reccomended mods or servicing that i should be thinking about undertaking? Already have a new clutch to go in. An LSD is not an option as I cant source one and probably couldnt afford one even if I could!! I did read something about replacing pins for bolts? Is this a worthwile job to undertake and ifso a little more detail would be great Ie. what pins, where are they located etc.. Finally what grade oil should be used and how many liters does it take to fill? The plan is to S/C the car in the next 6 or