stewvr6

3 to 6 Inches of movement means it's totally knacked, as the engine is standard just put a normal replacement in it. A solid engine mount will just give you vibration issues

That connector doesn't seem to be anything to do with the o2 sensor as that is conncted by the black block you have in the picture. Have you followed the wires from the connector to where it finishes up? If you can identify where it goes i might be able to find it in the bentley manual

write a letter for the local paper to print. see what he says then

I had this problem with mine,i used to find the passenger window opened whenever it fancied it. it is the earth wire in the door jam that has broken. With the door open the windows could be operated but with the door closed nothing worked including the sunroof. When i checked the cables in the rubber boot section of the drivers side door jam i found a thick earth wire had broken. an inline splice was fitted and i've never had a problem since.

Yep i agree with Parky, with my drivers door open the window would go up but with the door closed it wouldn't. it ended up being the earth wire in the rubber boot was breaking and making contact dependant on what position the door was in. You will need to check both doors as my passenger side window would come down just because of the fault with the drivers door.

as a rough guess i would say yes, a vr6 takes alot more torque to turn over.

if your relay works on your mates car then it will work on yours. have you got a spark first! if there is no spark then it would point more towards the ignition module between the coil pack and ecu if i am right in my thinking. try asking xyber on swdubs forum hei s pretty clued up on this kind of thing

to check for a spark get another spark plug and attach it to each individual ht lead and turn the engine over, place the spark plug against theslam panel to earth the plug. if it is working fine you will see the spark. if you were to remove a plug and do it you would spray fuel every where, so this is the easy answer. if the immobiliser is wired in to the starting circuit then either the starter motor wouldn't turn over or the solenoid wouldn't cick across.

it caused me enough headaches trying to rewire where they had cut in to the looms. now i know why the original immobilser kept interfering with the starter motor.

i had to remove the entire dash as well because there is a frame that goes all the way across and you can't really move the heater matrix box assembly from just the underside of the console. while i was there i also removed 3 different alarm systems that had been fitted by previous owners, fortunately the car still starts.

i had vagcom done and the only fault was - 00525 lambda probe g39 sporadic short cut to earth. i have had this one for quite a while so i don't really see this as the problem. I changed the blue 2 pin sensor in the cooling system as that feeds into the ecu but fault is still there. what does the 4 pin sensor in the cooling system do? Cheers stew

i used to have this problem and thought it was the radiator, when i jacked the car up i found that the clamp on the bottom pipe going into the radiator had cut into the pipeline. my simple fix was to cut it back behind the damage and reattached it.

start the car up but leave the heater off, let the engine warm up and then set the controls to hot, full blast on to the windscreen. if the heater matrix has gone then the screen will huff up straight away.

yep tried that today but it occured in fourth just above 3000rpm

Hi guys, i have a '93 obd1 vr6 which has suudenly developed this fault. When cruising in fifth gear in the ranges of 70mph the car will suddenly bog down, if i try and accelerate the revs continue to die but if i take my foot off the accelerator and then back on the car picks up again. I have not touched anything on the car for a while and this fault only just happened, this also occurs in wet and dry conditions. Any ideas? Cheers STEW