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russj249

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Everything posted by russj249

  1. russj249
    UPDATE 2! I have a spare ECU, transponder coil, immob box and key, so I swapped everything over (i know it won't run well as it's a standard ecu, but even if it fired for a couple of seconds I'd know) to cut a long story short, still no start, have exactly the same fault codes on the new ECU, key, immob and pickup, so if it really was an immob fault, it shouldn't do it on the other ECU, but it does! So, I have no other ideas what to try next. Engine management 109 relay is new, fuel pump 167 relay is new and works in my boss's vr6 so not those. No fault codes in engine management section
  2. russj249
    UPDATE... Got back from work today and as I suspected, as soon as I plugged immob box back in under steering column, it connected to VCDS instantly on both engine management and immob sections. So, if I keep the box plugged in, along with the transponder pick-up plugged in too, I get 2 codes. 01176 65-10 key unauthorized (intermittent) 01176 07-00 key signal too low If I unplug the transponder pickup wire from the box, I get the fault code, 01128 immob pickup coil (D2) 35-00. Still no start, codes clear and return instantly.
  3. russj249
    However I've just thought, I wonder if it's because I have immob box on steering column disconnected that's causing VCDS not to connect?
  4. russj249
    I thought the standard immob would allow car to start, then cut out after 1 second.. then not effect the car until it was turned off and try to start again? Stealth phoned me when I sent it to them and said it's already been removed, so I'm just going by what they say. They said it might be because I still had the transponder chip and receiver plugged in, so giving mixed signals. So ive removed the box and transponder pickup ring and still no good.
  5. russj249
    Ive been having big problems with my VR6 turbo not starting after 6 months of no use. It logs an immob fault code and won't start, I managed to find that on my laptop so got in touch with Stealh and sent it off to be done, BUT according to Stealth Racing the immob has been removed from ECU already! All that happens is fuel pump relay 167 clicks on and off while cranking, also I can't get onto engine, or immob on VCDS, yet I can get onto airbag and ABS (so nothing wrong with laptop or leads). I could get onto this before I sent it away, but I don't think it's the ECU at fault. Before i sent it
  6. russj249
    Lift up your gear gaiter, and have a look at the pivoting bit when you move the gear selector side to side. If I had a guess it's got play in there, and you should be able to see the play in it when you put in gear and wiggle the gear stick. A quickshift kit will reduce the throw, which is the distance between 1st and 2nd or 3rd and 4th, but wont do much for side to side movement, and definitely not fix any side to side excess play if the pivot part has gone. Gear linkages aren't really necessary as new ones won't really have much of an effect, but maybe new ones might slide a bit easier to f
  7. russj249
    lol fair enough! (
  8. russj249
    How did you get on with this mate?
  9. russj249
    As you look at mine, you have the adjuster nuts, and the locking nuts after that. My locking nuts are only just about on the thread if that makes sense?
  10. russj249
    Yes make sure you chock the front wheels and leave it gear, handbrake off, then wind the nuts off as far as you can without them falling off. Then feel the handbrake and it should be completely slack, and if you look at cables through ash tray, they should be completely floppy. If you take a pic of how far the nuts are wound on before you loosen them, then the nuts should be no where near that after its all adjusted up.
  11. russj249
    When the calipers were fitted, were the pistons wound out so they were tight onto pads? Or were they fitted and then the slack taken up on the adjuster by handbrake? It might be that the lever on the one side cant pull on any more if that calipers aren't adjusted evenly. If I were you, get the ash tray out the back and wind off the adjuster nut off until its right on the end of the thread and completely slack. Then before doing anything, make sure the levers on the back of the calipers are both firmly back on their stops. If they are, its got a good chance your cables are OK. Now if you undo t
  12. russj249
    First of all I'd like to say Hi to everyone again after my VR has been off the road for most of the year so far! I figured its about time that I get it back out on the road and start using it as I built it to do! I've gone to start it after it's been sitting for a good few months. I thought I isolated the battery but seemed I didn't! So after 2 days with the battery on charge at work, I bought it back and still wont fire. I'm getting a "00546 Data Wiring Faulty / 27-00 - Implausible Signal" fault. If I clear the codes sometimes it starts, then just randomly and instantly cuts out. I have to re
  13. russj249
    Seems like a good buy to me... http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=230996655784
  14. russj249
    Yes I would say that the turbo is a little too small. Even still I would expect a bit more than that to be honest. I'm running standard ams too, half a bar less boost than you , standard management tuned by Stealth Racing and have a little more power?
  15. russj249
    I would say around the 400bhp mark and around 360ft lbs torque! I've got a very similar spec with a custom short runner, 8.5/1 comp, 3 inch exhaust, 4inch maf and filter, with a GT3582r, but with standard OBD1 management and Bosch 440cc injectors (at 4bar), at 14psi with 354bhp and 340ft lbs torque. Can you spill the beans now?
  16. russj249
    M12 is 12mm the pitch I do no know, but the bolt is going to be something like M12x1, M12x1.25 or M12x1.5. Do you mean that you need an 8mm spacer for the 312mm carriers to locate central on the discs. So to do it properly you would need to match your standard carrier to hub bolts with an exact same bolt but 8mm longer.
  17. russj249
    Thanks Pete. It's a shame its all covered in heat wrap and you can't see the exhaust lol. If you click on one of the pictures they should be hyperlinked to my Flickr account and there's loads of pics of the rest of the build (although not all as I haven't got round to sorting the pics out)
  18. russj249
    This is a rather bad picture of my turbo setup (i know its not the same but gives you an idea) Note im using a cheap Chinese turbo for mark-up in case it got dropped! Then after fabrication, all that was needed was to chop the end off and fit a 3" V-Band fitting for a Garrett GT35. Anyway, you can see my wastegate which is like yours, very close to the exit. So with mine, I had enough room to do this... So... main bit of the downpipe is done On the turbo it looks like this. NOW... look at my wastegate exit, its going straight into the turbo exit. This will be terrible for exhaust gasses, so
  19. russj249
    Give me a short while and I'll post you a pic of my turbo downpipe I made.. I think it might be kind of what you need (but my wastegate is slightly lower down and turbo higher)
  20. russj249
    Any oil in the water is normally one of 2 things. - Head Gasket - Oil Cooler I would take it to a garage who has a sniffer to test if there's exhaust gasses in the water reservoir. This still might not clarify though so best get it checked out before it gets worse and blocks up the radiator, heater matrix, thermostat etc
  21. russj249
    Sounds like MAF to me.. the easiest way to test is to unplug it and take the car out and see what happens. If it runs worse the MAF isn't your problem, if it runs the same or better, then its probably your MAF. You need to get it plugged into VAG-COM or VCDS to get it checked out properly, then you can see any fault codes, and also the readings for the sensors to identify which is faulty. Also if there is a bit of a lumpy idle, check the vacuum hoses, particularly the PCV valve on the back left of the rocker cover, if this is split, then it could ndicate your lumpy idle.
  22. russj249
    Has the engine coolant temp sensor been checked? These are common to play up, it might be tricking the ECU in thinking its cold etc. Ideally you need it plugged into VCDS and have the sensor values checked.
  23. russj249
    This happened to me a couple of weeks ago at a Tesco petrol station, luckily I was in the Jeep so wasn't too bothered, but gave him a right mouthful and the really heavy Jeep doors might have accidentally smacked into the quarter panel of his Ford Ka maybe a little harder than he hit mine!
  24. russj249
    lol this is constantly how I feel when I'm a passenger in any females car!! Even if a car pulls out half a mile up the road I'm all "BRAKE BRAKE..." haha
  25. russj249
    but the snow
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