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russj249

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Everything posted by russj249

  1. russj249
    Not had any experience with those bush kits no, but one thing that some people overlook is the drivers side suspension arm is a bit of a pain to change as the sump gets in the way. Everything else is easy enough, but personally, I would get yourself some oil and oil filter too, drop the sump off to get the bottom arm bolt out and replace the arm, then re seal the sump and do the filter and fill back up with oil. If you have a look under the car at the bottom arm bolts you'll see what I mean
  2. russj249
    Take out abs relay or fuse so you can drive it somewhere.. it will stop it from going hard under the pedal and stop it from kicking in, but be aware it won't kick in during emergency stop.
  3. russj249
    I think I WAS the youngest! I'm 21 now, bought my VR6 when I was 17 and insured it a couple of weeks after my 18th after I had 1yr NCB.. worked my knackers off since I left school to afford it and complete my goal of doing my own turbo conversion! So if I'm not still the youngest, I think I might be right in saying I'm the youngest VRT owner!
  4. russj249
    Mine turbine size is .82 Only way to really tell if there's enough fuel getting in would be to fit a wideband o2 sensor. That's the best way, mine on full throttle drops to about 10-11 A/F ratio. Any higher than that on full throttle isn't good, any higher than 14+ could get dangerous to the engine.
  5. russj249
    Duplicate post
  6. russj249
    Only 14psi on mine.. torque is 340ft lbs ish too.. similar to the torque graph in picture but smoother top end after final mapping was all finished.
  7. russj249
    This is my bhp graph, its not too clear but if you can zoom in its a bit better.. its a bit more clear that at 3500rpm it spools up fully, so the graph is more of an 's' shape more than a straight line. If you can't see too well, the scale on the left is to 360bhp. Also here is my dodgy shaped torque curve lol not sure why it looks like this, was a strange one to Vince too, but still a good result. From your graph, your car has a more normal torque graph that maintains a steady figure to the end. Edit.. Just noticed that its psi not torque on the other line lol so ignore my comme
  8. russj249
    Erm.. give me a fee mins and I'll take the pics of the 2 graphs I have before it was finally finished. I don't know where I've put the final one, but you can see more or less from the other 2.
  9. russj249
    Hmm, not sure if its because of the turbo, or the fueling, but when yours comes on boost, there isn't a big increase in the line, its more of an average over the whole thing.. on the graph I have during the mapping session (before it was set up for the higher revs) there's a steady line up to 3500 ish and then a big increase in power before it tails off a bit.
  10. russj249
    When its been serviced, press and hold the trip reset button, then turn ignition on but do not start the engine, then release trip reset button and press the minute button on the clock screen within a couple of seconds. Then turn ignition off and turn ignition back on, message should have gone. I think the minute one is the bottom one.
  11. russj249
    Service reminder Next time it will say 02
  12. russj249
    Oh right ok, I have no experience of that way of mapping without an air flow meter.. are you using the standard ECU then or aftermarket.. you could really do with United Motorsports to come on here, any question you could think of will be answered, I'm sure they will also be able to help regarding the mapping with just a MAP sensor.
  13. russj249
    Oh ok I can see how its all setup now, where is the air flow meter positioned? Is it inside the box? And as I asked in last question, is it a standard air flow meter? Standard is 3 inch, so have you have run that pipe directly onto it with the air filter on that?
  14. russj249
    Just a quick one from looking through your spec, when you say 3 inch pipe into 4 inch inlet, are you using the standard air flow meter? And where is it positioned, pics would be useful.
  15. russj249
    Hmm that's a shame, I'm only just over an hour away.. but after spending the day in the workshop with Vince, I wouldnt think there are many people that are up to his standards. Would be nice to see other figures from the GT30 turbo as I'd imagine that may have a small effect.
  16. russj249
    Sorry, I read that wrong, I thought you took it to stealth racing for Vince to map, if not, I would advise take it to Vince lol
  17. russj249
    I have a similar spec ish with a GT3582r on an OBD1 with coilpack.. mine made 358 at 15 psi, so yea I would have thought a little more for yours on 18psi. Do remember than its super hot it the moment so less dense air to make the figures a bit higher. As for misfire, did Vince say to use the Audi TT BAM engine code plugs? Or the Audi 2.7 Bi Turbo RS4 plugs? I'm using the RS4 plugs as I had a minor miss at top end where the boost was effectively blowing out the spark. I would immagine a dizzy would be more suseptable for this than the coil.
  18. russj249
    What results do you have from oxygen sensor? A faulty sensor 'normally' gives readings a bit higher than that, but could still be reading wrong? After all, I bet Vince remapped it with his own A/F sensor at the tail pipes not using VCDS on your oxygen sensor readings. Might be worth chucking it on vag com and see what the readings are.
  19. russj249
    Fast idle limit is 0.200%, between 2500 and 3000 rpm. Idle test after a short pediod has a limit of 0.300%.. that is obviously at idle. As said above, the cat isn't working, so it 'should' have failed on emissions.
  20. russj249
    Here you go.. its based on a 993, 4 wheel drive twin turbo with 504 bhp.. I'm not sure of torque but I'd imagine its around the same figure as bhp. Big brembo calipers on massive floating discs. His name is Max and lives over Bridgnorth if anyone has ever seen it. sorry for some reason I can't get the IMG code to work so have to click the links.
  21. russj249
    I work on and service a Porsche which is a one off worldwide thing. He's a very good friend of my boss from when my boss worked at Ferrari before he set up on his own.. needless to say all the Fiat and Beetle jokes come out when he pops round haha.. I have some pics on my phone so will try and upload a couple.. I'm sure you will like it
  22. russj249
    There's a chap on eBay that sells the side mouldings . I was looking at the 3dr side strips and qtr strips he had on there.. Never bought any though o not sure on quality? Have you tried VW? I know they say obsolete worldwide on stuff but my local VW have managed to find some 'obsolete' bits floating around after a few phonecalls.
  23. russj249
    Basically yea.. as long as you keep the valve in you're ok.. but if you vent to atmosphere you have to unplug the purge valve or it'll run a bit dodgy.. I did this with mine and kept having a random fueling issue when Stealth Racing were setting up the ECU for my turbo, the problem turned out to be I was venting the vapour to atmosphere with the purge valve plugged in, and apparently when the valve is operated, the ECU does something with the fueling, so was messing the fueling about.
  24. russj249
    Only if you're venting the purge valve to atmosphere.. if you connect the pipes back up its just the same as standard just without the canister in, that's how I ran mine and it worked fine.
  25. russj249
    Pretty simple to remove too . Just a case of a couple of pipes being cut ans linked up.. As for its job.. in short, it takes the vapours from the petrol tank, and with a little purge valve that connects to it, vents the vapours through the charcoal filter inside and into the inlet manifold to be burnt with nornal combustion.
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