russj249
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Everything posted by russj249
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That is through the hole that is exposed when the charcoal/carbon cannister is removed.. would be dead easy to run some flexible pipe to the inlet of the standard air box, and easily adapt the drivers side lower grill to take the feed.
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You'd be best moving the charcoal canister and run it down that gap.. I ran my setup like that for a bit so will dig out a pic...
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Well I'm not top sure to be perfectly honest.. I am only.going on what I read somewhere a while ago, but I would think that the engine management relay controls the fuel pump relay, but not the other way round.. -
Oh yea you did lol.. try swapping them back yea, were working fine on mine and replaced them as I thought it would cure my problem but it didnt.
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Erm I'm sure its something like 109 and 167 are the ones.. top left and the one to the left of bottom right in the fusebox.. these are fuel pump and engine management.. I know the fuel pump one isn't probably going to be the issue, but I can't remember which is which I've also heard one won't work without the other but not sure how true this is.
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Just note that if you do a test on vag com with the engine not running, it will come up with a fault for engine speed sensor (or similar code) it clears as soon as the engine starts.
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I think everyone will say Tial F38 or any other bigger one in the Tial range.
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Have you replaced cam or crank sensors? Also what are the results from the diagnostics check? Any fault codes?
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Audi TT 312mm brakes.. use the standard 288mm calipers but you will need the carriers off a TT or Audi S3 etc, a 6mm spacer and longer bolts.. or failing that go hi-spec or similar, they come up now and again on here and on eBay.
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Does that say knob? lol all the 4 letter words I can't think of that should be blocked out don't make any sense!
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Where did you buy the FPR from? I bought one off eBay and after about 2 wheels I had it popping a lot, smell of fuel and struggling to start with wet plugs.. the diaphragm had split and was pumping fuel straight down the vacuum pipe into the inlet manifold. I mean, the chances of this happening again aren't likely, but you never know. But, if its only done this since the CAT replaced, it could be sensor related and just overfueling in general because of a faulty sensor.
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Check the diaphragm in the fuel presume regulator isn't split, had a similar problem with mine that stunk of fuel and wouldn't start.. maybe drop the vacuum pipe off the FPR and block the inlet manifold side off with your finger, and see if any fuel comes out the vacuum pipe. If that's ok then might have to get it on vag com and see what faults come up.
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Thought I'd fixed this but...............have'nt.
russj249 replied to robadobadob's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
I'd seriously drop the cat off the downpipe before anything else and see what happens then. -
Might be the manifold then, after all its less restrictive so could be breathing better and drawing more air into the cylinder, and more air with more fuel will obviously mean more heat. I can't remember my temps etc from before and after 6 branch, but would be nice to see other people's before and after temps. As for smell did you check the oil breather from the rocker cover? Mine used to drip every now and again n stunk for ages afterwards.
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I think high 90's is normal for summer temp.. especially as when you fitted 6 branch, chances are you've been 'testing' it out a bit more than normal! As for oil smell, check the crank case breather valve isn't split, never did it when it dripped into my standard downpipe when it was split, but does drip straight onto exhaust manifold when no shields are there. Or are you sure its not the smell of the heat wrap? Mine stunk for ages!
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Show me your sterling wheel, need a new one to replace vr69one
russj249 replied to ukstacks's topic in General Chat
LOL iPad auto correct is terrible.. but does make for funny reading lol I'm unsure if the Lupo steering wheels fit, but I'm sure someone on here will have done the conversion! I'm sure though that after looking at some steering wheels the other day there was a polo one advertised with Polo, Lupo and Golf 1, 2 and 3 fitment. -
Show me your sterling wheel, need a new one to replace vr69one
russj249 replied to ukstacks's topic in General Chat
The MK4 GTi ones don't fit, the 3 spoke ones that is.. however for a rediculous price, you need to look at the MK3.5 convertible steering wheel. They're well over 100 quid compared to the MK4 ones for 50 or 60 odd quid though. That's the only real descent looking and feeling wheel that will fit a standard VR6 inc the airbag. -
Might be a slight discepency in the rev counter.. mine cuts at 6750 on the dash. Have a look at it on Vag-com or something and see what the max revs are, then swap the computer onto the other car and see what max revs are on that one. that would be the digital way of doing.it, and ruling out the rev counter being slightly out.
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I think standard headlights are.. different if you have Hella's are though.. as for Xtreme Vision.. I've never tried them so cannot comment, however reading some of the reviews people say that they are brighter than the Osram, but unless you bought both I dont think you'd notice the difference
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Have a look at www.powerbulbs.co.uk I had some Osram night breakers on my old polo and you wouldn't believe the difference from standard.
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Unplug the air flow meter and take it out again. If its any better or the same its that, if its worse then the problem is somewhere else. And check for any air leaks especially around the crankcase breather valve.
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Autodata says 'airgap not specified - no adjustment possible' As Tony says, maybe drop the rear discs off and check that the abs ring has been put on before the rubber seal for the wheel bearing.. it might have been put on afterwards so it sticks out too far. If the abs ring sits on top of the rubber seal or is loose its not right.. it should be put on first, then I use a 36mm ish socket and mallet to press the rubber seal in afterwards.
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The metal round shaped thing with the sensors on the top is the oil filter housing, and the sensors are oil pressure switches. As for PAS fluid, it could be mineral oil, which is green... However there are no power steering pipes by that, unless you have a leak which is spraying, but then you'd notice that on the floor. I can't see very well in the pics, but does look like an air con rad.
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Hmm.. sounds odd.. have a look for the compressor,its directly underneath the alternator if you have one.. Here's a pic of mine.. can just see it under the alternator.
