printedflunky

interested too, based in East Sussex.

yes still looking for a supercharger, feel free to forward details

I'm hoping that one of you chaps with a supercharger fitted have decided that a change may be about due, in which case you're in luck! I would like to free you of the burden of the under bonnet hairdryer in exchange for some coloured paper that you can swap for food, tyres or sealed tins of mead. I live in the south east and can collect from any of the home counties but due to a marvellous feat of civil engineering, designer caffeinated beverages and the internal combustion engine, am also able to travel further afield for the right kit at the right price. Ideally I'd like to spend £4.86 but

Arrrghhhhh! Need assistance, just spoke to the engineering firm and during conversationhe asked what I was using the new 'rods for so I told him what the plan is, he instantly replied with a question that I know I should have asked myself when I started all this: "have you taken into account for the increased volume there will be an increase in compression ratio?" "shite" was my rather eloquent reply. Subsequently I've been trying to work out how high the compression ratio will be if I leave the order on the 'rods as is. If anyone here could assist with the piston to deck figures, dish volume

I'm hoping for a stable 200 ponies without changing the camshafts and exhaust. Once the engine has bedded in and covered a couple of thousand miles I'll replace the cams and exhaust, get it put on a rolling road and get it live mapped. I would hope for 220hp without over stressing the engine. The whole idea behind not boring out and putting oversized pistons in was partly down to cost but mostly down to the fact that I don't want to drop reliability or thrash-ability (not sure that's a real word). The cylinder head shop.com thinks he'll be able to increase the flow rates by 30% but I don't kno

The crank has a stroke that is 5.8mm longer than the 12v vr6 which is 95.9mm so it will give : pi(40.5mm^2) x 95.9mm= 494157.8714625mm^3 per cylinder x6= 2964.947228775cc so in general terms it'll make it a 'real' 3lt vr6

It's not as much as you might think to be honest, as I said in this^^^^^^^^ post I got the block, pistons, piston rings, gudgeons and wrist pins for the princely sum of £465 the R32 crank was £150 from a local scrappy the custom rods are £140 each the TT bits were $685 roughly £425 supatech valves were £150 the head work is yet to be completed but he quoted me £15 per port (x12=£180) £12 per valve to enlarge to bigger diameter plus another £8 per valve for the 5 angle seats. total spent and commit to spend is somewhere close to £2500

that's the fella I bought my block and pistons from

My VR started running like an angry badger last week so I took it to a VW specialist and they called me a few hours later telling me that it was either a burnt valve or a piston ring had shat itself either way I was looking at having to shell out a lot of cash to repair a 182000mile vehicle, so I did wht any sane person would do; I ordered: a new block 6 new standard pistons a set of genuine piston rings a set of genuine gudgeons a genuine set of wrist pins an R32 crank and a set of custom made conrods (5.8mm shorter than standard) also sent a spare head I had lying around to a cylinder head t

I have a sharan VR6 with a manual gearbox code DBV, is this an 02* 'box therefore the repair/overhaul/5th gear swap procedures be the same or is it entirely separate entity? Any help appreciated

The power output from new are rated at 172bhp which I believe is the same as golfs, ventos and Passat vr's. In Europe they were rated a bit lower but UK ones are all as powerful and fun to run as mk3's

Follow this link, it shows you all you need to know: http://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/?q=passat+vr6

thanks for the advice guys, it turned out to be a blockage in the heater matrix. Found it by looking under the bonnet with the engine running and noticed one of the rubber pipes from the heater was sucked flat. I took the pipes off and put my garden hose up the end of one of them, put a kitchen sieve under the other and turned on the hose. you should have seen the sh*te that came out! I also did a complete system flush using the same method and now i have hot air in the cabin and lovely fresh anti freeze on the driveway.

My 98 vr6 used to run oil temps of 95+*c all the time which I've been told is as its supposed to but now it won't get above 82*c without kicking the arse off of it and even then it only goes to 90*c, also my water temp will not go above 1/4 (75*c) . What could be the cause for this as its also affecting the heating in the cabin. One quick note she's regularly serviced and doesn't lose coolant, any help would be greatly appreciated.

02a gearbox