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Lukey.

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Everything posted by Lukey.

  1. Lukey.
    does it not have a boot key lock?
  2. Lukey.
    Bloody hell £9 a wheel for the whole job where I live!
  3. Lukey.
    There could be lots of rusty sediment in the system, I took all my hoses off after the 2nd flush it was still going brown, I put a holts speedflush through the system and went for a 50 mile drive, I had to replace the crack pipe and thermostat housing so had removed all the hoses, thermostat housing, crack pipe and the front anyway though which made it a lot easier for me as I'd done it anyway, all the hoses had brown sh!te in them that had to be power washed out, I did the same through the block and radiator too. Since I had done this my coolant has stayed pinky purple like it should. But i
  4. Lukey.
    i think the intake temp sensor has effect on idle so it may cause both your problems
  5. Lukey.
    just in case you decide to go with 205/40/17 camskill are doing a special on Toyo T1R atm £250 for 4 delivered. Just snapped a set up myself.
  6. Lukey.
    beat me to my own edit lol
  7. Lukey.
    sounds like you heater matrix has given up the ghost, look for wet carpets and coolant drips out of the foot vents, if you put it on hot on the wndscreen it should steam up pretty quick too. This would mean you need a new heater matrix, not particularly expensive, but a pain to do as you need to take the dash out
  8. Lukey.
    they are the same leads mate, just dont use the 7th lead
  9. Lukey.
    yea i used VW ones they looked better than the spurious ones i got hold of, silcone grease them up too and they should last better from the lubrication and as another waterproofing barrier. I just did my whole thermo housing and distrubution pipe and i put all the part numbers i used in the post aftrer i found them, search the site for crack pipe part nos and my thread will turn up with all the numbers in it
  10. Lukey.
    google has still cached it all
  11. Lukey.
    looks really good, but will that stay as-is when the engine gets 100deg?
  12. Lukey.
    the o ring will have shaped to the other housing and it could have been minutely different, best to use new o rings every time you take something out and put it back
  13. Lukey.
    Have a look on opieoils they usually have offers on
  14. Lukey.
    does deliverance soundtrack
  15. Lukey.
    its the PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation). you cant get it seperately from a dealer, you have to buy the whole Intake hose elbow to get it, the ford version for a galaxy is cheaper for the same part. i think the part numbers are in the frequently requested part nos sticky at the top of the engine maintenance forum
  16. Lukey.
    its a good price for the lot, id keep the callipers on and sell the ones you get, people are selling 312mm callipers for nearly £100 so youd have the cheapest brake upgrade ever
  17. Lukey.
    maybe they learned from enzo ferraris mistakes, he used to just discard old race cars then the people that picked them up for simply nothing at the time years later made millions selling a 330 P3. The whole James Glickenhaus thing happened for that very reason.
  18. Lukey.
    a bottle of the proper green power steering fluid from a dealer is about £6 and would do a full refill
  19. Lukey.
    yes, no need for anything else that bigger discs, carriers, 6mm spacers and longer hi tensile bolts. technically no need, but always best to put new pads with new discs obviously. no idea what wheels would work and what wouldnt though, i just know the technicalities
  20. Lukey.
    you dont need the calipers, the 288s are the same size and use the identical pads to the 312s, the only reason you would put the 312 calipers on is if you were bothered about a couple mm bigger piston in it, not worth the bother if you ask me cos youll have to re bleed the brake fluid after.
  21. Lukey.
    its mister solutions a garden machinery website you can get a set of 6 for £14
  22. Lukey.
    id look at the air cylinder in the door for leaks
  23. Lukey.
    i assumed it was just your brake lights out and all others working, as ive had this happen to me, and it turned out to be a snapped power connection on 1 of the red and black wires, re-soldering cured it for me. Regardless, if you dont have a multimeter get a cheapy one from maplin or something, then you can check both the power levels going through the wires and the continuity which will highlight a break in a connection
  24. Lukey.
    The wiring on the nearside controls all the lights, so look at the wires going to that large long connector on the back of the nearside cluster, to start with get a multimeter and check that there is power going to the wires when someone presses the brakes. My wiring diagram says the wires are both red and black and the common earth is brown, the circuit has to be totally complete to get any lights to illuminate, it's a kind of all or nothing circuit you can then trace back if there is no power at the wires and find the break
  25. Lukey.
    I did 2 and 3 layers of clearcoat
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