Lukey.
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Everything posted by Lukey.
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The bonrath is not as long as that, it stops at the point where the bend straightens
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If you clean them with some proper solvent plastic cleaner they should come up black like new
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exactly lol
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lol yep' date=' quite literally burn,saying that my vr {engine wise}has wanted little money except petrol, its mainly haveing an 18 year old car that tends to eat up my money [/quote'] I find that this is the fun part of owning my VR6, (not the expense bit im loathed to spend yet more money on it lol) that they need maintaining, you can dismantle the whole thing and put it back together and it wont have a tantrum about it, and that most can be done by yourself cos its from the previous generation, just old enough that everything can be taken to bits but just new enough to take advantage of th
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the little screws are basically to make it easier for you to fit the wheel back on as it lines the disc up with the bolt holes, ive been doing fine with a screw head snapped off for 2 years now, just makes lining the disc and wheel up a little bit more tricky thats it. Bolting the wheel on tight over the disc is what fastens it to the hub good and tight.
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sounds easy, certainly doesnt look it though, i thought about this when i had my clifford fitted, this thread soon changed my mind lol http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2339483 this could also totally depend on your alarm fob type, mine doesnt have buttons just circuit board contacts, they dont seem to work with anything but the buttons in my alarm fob so dont know if thye have some metal in or something, from this finding on my own i think its likely that for it to work you would have to start with a fob that has proper buttons that the flip fob could press for it to be reliable. it i
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if you laquer over them it looks like theyve just been back to blacked all the time. If you do this though they have to be cleaned down to literally a molecular level, cos all that silicone and oils in the trim restorer will cause the paint to either not stick or bubble up.
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if i had to move to another engine it would be the 1.8 20VT, it was designed as the replacement for our VR6 engine, and the noise on the 5th valve is pretty good, much more easily tuneable and gets better economy
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as in halfords touch up pens? yes
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had the wheel bearings done - still humming?
Lukey. replied to cpfcvr6's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
not just bottom end tyres, mines on yoko parada spec 2 and they hum like a b!tch -
if its down to residual fuel pressure there are only a few things that can affect this, the one way valve in the fuel pump, the fuel pressure regulator and the injectors. If any of these seals are leaking then the fuel will just leak back into the tank, causing dry starting like you are getting. Or into the cylinders if its injectors, but youd probably get a flooded scenario or a bang every start too.
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If fuel prices rise so much people basically can't afford to go to work and ten have to go on govt benefits then the problem just made itself exponentially worse just through tax greed.
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They all look fine on the car they are meant for, but swapping them round I never like the result, different headlights of the same shape is enough to totally change the look of a front end while still keeping the "looking right" ness
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Love the sound of the green one, like a tie fighter lol
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mine ever so slightly dripped after a little bit and i tweaked it to 33 or 34 Nm and it stopped it again, and hasnt dripped since. I think it was the seals just bedding in cos they were brand new genuine.
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looking at the bentley manual yours should be on the newer teves 20 ABS, the control module should be built into the ABS pump, on older cars the control module is under the rear seat. the manual does not tell you how to go about replacing the sensors though, the only advice it gives is to not twist the wires and tighten the bolt to 10Nm
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it will have only come with the keys when the car was new on a little plastic tab attached to the keys' date=' if you didnt receive it when you got the car then its lost and you would have to go to the dealer with your V5 and IDs to prove you are the current owner to get a new key, along with a big fat wad of money! Theres no way you can guess it as theres 2 different versions of codes with different lengths and combinations, if you tried with VAG-COM without your original 4 digit code youd probably inadvertently clear the stored keys and be left with no working keys. you need to get VW to do
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check the sticker under the boot carpet for your paint code to make double sure, as above it should be LC9Z
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30Nm
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Halfords do an off the shelf black magic pearl metallic but I think it's listed as a skoda colour, it's exactly the same though
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Real easy the hardest part is if it doesn't have the same connector as the vw one is not ISO, I cut the plug and length of wire off the old original aerial and adapted it to ISO for my sharkfin. To get the original off you drop the headliner down from the boot end and it's a big bolt to undo and it just slots out with the bolt off, fitting the new one is just reverse of removal providing the base is the same diameter, the hole is square so its easier to line a proper one up, mine came with a base the exact same square size so it just dropped straight in I would also make sure you get an amplif
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Google the codes and see what it says? I personally would spend £12 or so on a brand new set rather than use plugs I'm not sure on
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Search refurbished injectors there are sites that offer good warranty on refurbed back to like new injector packs
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You can do it on a golf too without removing the front, it's a bit tight though and much easier from underneath, might be tempted to take the front off though for how easy it is (6 bolts) and make sure the mating surface on the block is super clean, last thing you want is to replace the seals and you find you trapped some muck between the cooler and block and it's leaking still, waste of brand new oil cos you'd have to empty it all out agian
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Replaced the crack pipe and thermostat housing yesterday after finding a sweet smelling puddle under my car over the weekend. Took 6 hours in total from front off to front back on not including the 40 mile drive i took with some cooling system flush in to clean out all the rust and crap. Front off was as easy a job as it looked, which was nice This pic cracks me up And with everything exposed got on with it First i removed the coolant pipes and expansion tank, some of which had seen better days I had to just guess if the level was right in this tank you cant see through it at all The oil
