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Lukey.

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Everything posted by Lukey.

  1. you have to be careful mounting them on the back of the door card cos the window system is very close, get a deep basket speaker and it will foul on the window and/or mechanism
  2. rear arch panels are available, i replaced both of mine
  3. same as above i have a JBL twin 10" self powered tube and theres plenty of room left over. I recently binned the stock speakers and on recommendation got InPhase XTC6 and they are more than capable, theyll go full volume on my alpine cda-9866R no problem. They also fit behind the stock enclosures as the front doors are pretty tight for , and the stock grilles will go on with just a bit of flattening the edge rim. The stock system is a basic component system, so you may want to replace with a component system, rather than just coaxials as the stock mounting positions aurally arent that bad
  4. if you can find someone near you with vagcom there are some ABS pump cycles and purges you can do, I did this with mine and the brakes came back working 100%, but thats assuming the pump is in fine working order, if its given up the ghost prob will be looking at a new pump. They are fun cars and fun to fix up too! honest
  5. dont know about the part no mate but if its the same part no its gonna be the same pump surely but i can tell you that having a 98 car it will be OBD2, what you need is a teves20 pump as there are 2 kinds so make sure thats what you get
  6. easiest is like they do, cut out the corrosion and make a new join point and run new pipe, had to do all mine when i changed the flexi-lines, as its an old car if the pipes are original youll have a job getting the end connectors off with brake line spanners, they will probably be corroded on solid. I had to cut the ends and get a socket on the bolts to get mine off
  7. 1J0121087B Its a bent pipe instead of straight but is fine, and about a tenth of the price of the proper VR6 one as you have to buy the whole run of hose just to get the Y-piece.
  8. they will be just held in place with plastic rivets along the lip of the arch, they are reusable you just punch the middle post out of the rivet and yes there will prob be some upsetting corrosion behind them
  9. I have paradas and like everyone else they are good in the dry but not so good in the wet, but they seem to be lasting fairly well, 3000miles and i think theyve only gone down 1mm, when they are worn off theyll be getting replaced with T1Rs though
  10. is it a 5 bar pressure gauge? cos the VR6 needs higher than 5 so only vdo option is a 10bar with matched sender. other than making sure you have the correct pressure range gauge/sender, its very easy to connect them up, they only need a live, ground and sender feed. the volt meter just needs live and ground. If you wire them up in serial you can do a very neat job too, no excess amount of wires.
  11. when youve drilled the rivets out its a couple mins job, pull the old ones off, line the new ones up and smack them in place and theyll pop on the runners, remember to only drill the rear end covers off, cos the front ones unless damaged dont need replacing, you can slide the new strip out and the new one in without taking it off
  12. the strips pop onto strips that are taped to the cars sill, they are sided so make sure you are getting the side you want, as the rear endcap is fixed to the strip and the front isnt, so if you get the wrong side it will go on the wrong way. Also the end caps are rivetted to the car so youre gonna need to drill the rivet out, you can get a bag of a few of black rivets the size you need from VW for a couple of quid 1H0 853 985 Driver Side 1H0 853 986 Passenger Side
  13. yea it was dripping from the bottom edge but dont know if it was the bottom edge just cos of gravity
  14. I decided to track down my very very slight but incessant oil drip that keeps appearing under my car that looked like it was coming from the oil filter area. I had a look under and found it was this bit next to the filter housing, the screw cap was about half a turn loose so ive tightened it up and hopefully thats the end of that. But what is it?
  15. Due to there being so many different bulbs it could be you'd be best pulling a bulb out and looking, or posting a pic if you cant work it out. To make sure.
  16. i think there are 2 different bulbs depending on the age of your car and what lights it has, single or twin chambers. As calico says, as long as they work and the bulb or holder fits right it doesnt matter.
  17. the mirror is held in purely by the force of the spring bars on the back of the mirror pressing against the tabs on the mirror housing, so prise it out carefully with slow force and it should pop off, if youve got heated mirrors you need to be careful of the wires for that too as they fasten onto element on the back of the glass
  18. you need to take the mirror glass out, its on spring bars so prise it out using as minimal force possible to reduce risk of smashing, then unscrew the cover from the housing
  19. depending on how much camber you want eibach do a set of camber bolts with cams on them to give 1.75deg pos or neg, only bout £20
  20. i agree with the 17s being less twitchy and they also improved the ride overall on my car even with 205/40 as opposed to 205/50 on the 15s. My 17s are much lighter than my 15s so the gearing deficit doesnt really affect the overall performance, bigger diam but less weight
  21. these? http://www.venommotorsport.com/product_details.php?id=2463&manufacturer=Venom&category=Lighting
  22. its far easier to take the rear seat out too. then its fairly obvious, undo the front screws, the seatbelt anchor and the top seat anchor, theres a couple more fastners to undo underneath the rear bench then it will just pull out, undo the speaker wires before you yank the card away too!
  23. they might be making a comeback, look at the new focus RS Reminds me of my performance blue ST, memories ;(
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