Lukey.
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Everything posted by Lukey.
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the yellow wire under the arch is on mk2s. first off re connect up the sidelights normally, you use the dipped beam wires for the HIDs (assuming you have twin chamber headlights, other wise it will be the only headlight wires you have and you have bought h4 HIDs so you can retain dipped/full beam) Then when they are all wired up correctly move into the car for the next step: remove the headlight switch and take out the yellow wire at position 3 labelled 56D, that is the dim dip resistor'd wire. I just popped the connector out of the plug and heatshrink'd over it and left it hanging off the lo
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ive got a 320mm momo millenium on mine and the millenium air leather gearknob too, the gearknob is a bit worn after years of use it wants replacing really, but it'd only be for the same again. Momo is expensive but you pay for quality and their stuff feels all quality. 320mm feels like the right size for me, the 280 looks dinky
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they are pretty much the same seat with bigger better bolsters on the side, better than the stock ones yes, you do sit more in them than on them, but not like the modern recaros in a Mk5 or a Focus ST, that are so much better than the standard seats and you totally sit in them rather than on them. The red RECARO does look sweet though
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try a vw dismantlers? at 94 it would be an OBD1 so i would find out if theres a difference between OBD1 and 2 plugs, i dont know the difference though i do doubt they are interchangeable, if they can be you widened your search a lot
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or instead of all that you can do this simple 5 minute mod that will solve the problem with the current wiring system that makes it so much less of a hassle remove the headlight switch and take out the yellow wire at position 3 labelled 56D, that is the dim dip resistor'd wire. I just popped the connector out of the plug and heatshrink'd over it and left it hanging off the loom. Discconecting this from the back of the plug stops the dim dip feature and you get no power to the dip headlights on sides and get full power to the lights when the switch is on headlights position Part #s that end in
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I got it out today, it was screws at the bottom then 2 strong clips on the sides and 2 posts about an inch long on the top that located into 2 holes on the frame. I had almost had enough of dicking about with it and peeling the fascia back to try and see then the thing popped off a clip and threw itslef out the dash! Gave me a real fright i thought it had fired the airbag or something!
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i can vouch for water being there for a long time before you even notice. My carpets were dry on top but taking them out the insulation was piss wet through and it had obviously been there for years as it had rusted right through the underside of the car and ive had to weld a patch into my floor!
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could they be plastic nuts? im usure i remember sticking my hand right up the dash and felt plastic fasteners
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right, ill have another look tomorrow, it just seemed very fastened in still, might have a bit of a firmer heave on it
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my battery has been disconnected for bout 2 weeks so no worry there, its these top screws im having trouble with getting at yea, i have no idea how to access them
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Im wanting the passenger airbag out to fit the top glovebox, far more useful to me! ive got the bottom bolts of the metal bracket out no problem, and the miriad screws that fasten the bottom of the outer dashboard bit to the unit, but i cant figure out how to get the actual whole airbag section out so i can get the glove box in. ive tried pulling, wiggling, back and forth, looking right up the back of the dash etc and cant figure it out. cheers
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They are little capless bulbs, any auto shop should have them cut'n'paste of the instructions i used: Prize out switch blanks carefully with wide blade Slide out switches and disconnect from loom connectors Slide diagnostics socket cover off Carefully prize off heater control escutcheon plate Remove 6No screws and withdraw switch carrier Push heater controls into dash, down and forward Bulb is in white carrier
