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Lukey.

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Everything posted by Lukey.

  1. Aagghhh YouTube is over for me with their stupid "this person hasn't enabled mobile viewing on this video"
  2. For the VR6 a sump is a sump but it has to be for the VR6, p/n 021 103 601 B, no others will fit, unless you decide to go R32 alloy sump for the baffling, they are shallower but you need to change the pump for a shorter one and if you do hit them they will shatter, obviously use some good oil resistant black sealant when fitting, VW will sell you their sealant if you want it p/n D 176 404 A2.
  3. If there are bad enough corrosion problems they will either fail it or advisory, as far as doing the work and costing that would all depend on the garage so you'll have to play that one by ear, any body shop will give you a quote as you'll probably need paintwork after the repairs too.
  4. Yes, and you need to look at what needs doing before you'd know how much work it would entail, common places are; The sills, anywhere on them but usually starts at the bottom seams, look all the way under as it can start from under too. The arches front and back, especially if it is wearing plastic extensions, there's a good chance that it can be total rust under them, but you can get very lucky too and there be none. The bottom edge of the wings that goes under the skirts if it has them. The fuel filler area can get bad rust too. The metal underneath the door seal rubbers can have water sit o
  5. Be interested in what you have to say as I get the reverse turn thunk.
  6. You get them separately and its best idea to replace them with new ones on new discs anyway.
  7. Got some bruichladdich 10 year old yesterday at nearly half price, so good I may get another bottle in stock
  8. Ha it's like the Ferrari 355 with a Citroen van shell on it.
  9. I don't really like to use them particularly but when my oil cooler went I used a bottle of holts speed flush and it did a good enough job of de greasing followed by plenty of hosepipe flushing
  10. Yea this is totally what you prefer, mine is late so has colour coded bumpers but I also have colour coded arch extensions, which I think sets it apart and gives it a more beefed up look especially with my 17" RCs. But that's my preference.
  11. Good news, how long into the trip before you felt yourself relax in the drivers seat? Lol
  12. Yea that's the one, awesome.
  13. Just seen the new tv advert for the R8 V10 plus, best car tv advert ever? I think so! Got a better one?
  14. Ha yea mate, this was the original thing I brought up with old or new type engine, to ensure you got the correct type, sounds like you've been sent the pre 217,000 engine no. type.
  15. Which hasn't got a groove? Do you mean the gasket doesn't have a raised rib going right around the top if it? You are still using a late plastic rocker cover aren't you?
  16. The book tightness is 25Nm, if its popping back up maybe the thread is letting go?
  17. As long as its the green stuff it doesn't matter, I bought a litre from VW a couple of years ago for about £6.
  18. Sliding the ball joint in or out on the slotted bolt holes would affect camber too, maybe to a slight degree the toe, either way it would be best practice to get fully aligned back up. All GTIs have plus suspension, the wishbones are identical, its the same part number for both models. Incidentally the drive shafts for the GTI and VR6 also have the exact same part number.
  19. To check for that you can get a sniff test done to check for exhaust gasses in the cooling system.
  20. Are you using the original spring clips? If so change them for jubilee clips first and see if the leaks stop.
  21. The camber isn't guaranteed to be fine no, as you will have to take the bottom ball joint off the old one and onto the new one, they are slotted holes for adjustment.
  22. Had ETKA on so looked 357 711 590 B front 357 711 590 C back
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