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Lukey.

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Everything posted by Lukey.

  1. Even just replacing them with new oem ones will prob be ok, I didn't know about the 2 oil cooler hoses when I did mine and replaced them just with genuine items.
  2. What are you actually wanting to do here? Is one of your senders faulty? Are you trying to add an oil pressure gauge? Each problem will have a different answer.
  3. Yes, but the kit is the same regardless, if you're OBD2 you have a small S-shaped hose left over for from the crankcase breather to throttle hose.
  4. That part no is for the strip that sticks to the body of the car and the 2 main skirt plastics hang onto it, it is not sided. If you mean the long cover strip its; 1H0 853 985 for left strip with rear end piece 1H0 853 986 for right strip with rear end piece 1H0 853 995 left front end piece 1H0 853 996 right front end piece You'll have to ring up a dealer to get current prices.
  5. Here is the sticker off my box, obviously its for black hoses 8-)
  6. There's people breaking cars on here, eBay, local scrappers.
  7. You could pick one up fairly easily they are just stock items on every mk3 and would be simple to repaint in your colour.
  8. Look up Hadrian I used theirs and fit right up
  9. Does the box leak? If no then just change the oil, it'll take pretty much the whole of 2 bottles.
  10. Undo the bolt that fastens them to the wishbone then they wind off the ARB nice and easy.
  11. Ah it's been removed, I hope it sold elsewhere lol.
  12. I don't think it will have ever been touched previous to you, but even so I don't think you're going to have an issue with it stripping, when I had the box off I full 14st of me stood and hopped on my ratchet to get it to undo, the plugs are immensely strong.
  13. The 2 oil pressure senders are both M10x1 thread. One is high pressure and one is low pressure, high is on the left and low is on the right.
  14. You do need a 17mm hex to undo the gearbox plugs, undo the top fill one before undoing the bottom drain to prevent dropping the oil then not being able to fill it back up. Most use redline MT90, last time I used this and the time before I used redline MTL, the MT90 seems to give a better shift buffer as its slightly thicker. Whatever you use it HAS to be GL4 don't get anything unless it states that its GL4. GL5 doesn't supersede it, it will destroy the brass synchros if you use it.
  15. Do they have the specific "totally bespoke to the application of the deep set plugs and removal tool" plug ends available off the shelf though?
  16. They aren't so bad with a couple of different length extensions, the big head of the torque wrench is the biggest issue on the drivers side with not much clearance, also much easier if you have a helper apply and release the brakes at your command.
  17. or bkr6e if you want colder or bkr7e if you want colder still
  18. You can't really leave it in when its separated as the engine is the only thing holding it in anyway.
  19. I'd save up a little but more and get a DC2 integra type R
  20. That's the correct torque sequence, did you tighten them up in the correct order too?
  21. There may still be the data sticker on the left side of the rocker cover too which will have engine number on it, 217001 on is late. Trouble with these old girls is you don't always know if anything has been changed in the past etc. Yours all suggests later type to me though
  22. The drop links are just connected to the wishbone by a 13mm bolt, no need to remove the wishbone.
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