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Lukey.

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Everything posted by Lukey.

  1. I put masking tape around them and write their position on them to avoid any self imposed confusion later hehe
  2. Oh right fair enough, when I looked there were no uk based sellers the closest was Germany. The coolant sounds like the person who took it apart last put the 2 top gearbox bolts in the wrong way round, this can pierce the water jacket.
  3. Vodka and Yakult sounds like actual poison lol
  4. Yea that's what I did in the end, got a plate cut to the outside dimensions from a local metal workers for a quid then cut the shape with an angle grinder.
  5. Where did you manage to get a cam lock plate from? I couldn't find one outside of US.
  6. At the price of synta 10w40 a bi annual oil change will do your engine more good.
  7. And huge holes rusted out if you're really unlucky
  8. You obviously didnt click the link then, where you can get a set for 14 quid delivered.
  9. There is a row of screws along the very bottom of the big plastic sill covers. The front part of the top strip is (or should be if it hasn't rusted out) attached to the front wing, you need to pry the top strips off from the back end, they are only popped on along 2 locking strips so will come off with fairly little effort. With the bottom screws off and the top strip off the 2 big front and rear sections will just lift off the hanger fastened to the sill.
  10. Just get BKR5E from here nice and cheap http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/product/bkr5e-ngk-spark-plug-116-p I ran a set for 2 years and they were absolutely fine just replaced them beginning of this month and they weren't even ready for replacing really.
  11. What's your favourite drink? Or if you're like me what are your favourite drinks with certain meals etc? I like a fairly wide range really, but mainly beers, lagers and whiskey. I don't have a drink too often, maybe once or twice a week. I only really like a lager if I'm having a spicy pizza or Mexican food. I'll have a pint of beer or ale, like greene king IPA, badger or copper dragon if were having like a barbie or something. I'll have a whiskey later on at like 9 or 10 on a night when we're all settled down and watching a programme or something. At the moment it'll be something like Joh
  12. The AMY engine just uses the later type guide and bolt for the AAA. That is; 021 109 507 B - Late bolt 021 109 509 E - Late rail Or if you want to make it single chain like it should be; 021 109 503 F - Single upper chain 066 109 570 - Single intermediate sprocket 021 109 111 H - Single cam sprocket (need 2) N 102 038 03 - Cam sprocket bolt (need 2) If you're going to take the opportunity to renew the rear crankshaft seal while the box is off its about 50 quid from VW, ring a motor factors and get an Elring p/n 342.093. Its about 15 quid.
  13. That's what I meant all of the sprockets, the iPhone has a habit of changing your sentences lol Are you looking at mk4 12v pics from a US source? Mk3 looks like this, the ml4 one is "cross" shaped.
  14. For the price AP can't be beat... for the price. You spend 3 times on KW of course they are gonna be nicer.
  15. You're right, its an older tensioner bolt and newer guide, at the very least you've got old cams and intermediate sprocket to accommodate the twin chain.
  16. Why fuse 21? That's for interior light, central locking and sunroof. If you've pulled the headlight fuse and the light has gone out you at least know that the fault doesn't lie from the fuse box to the lights, its somewhere up to the fuse box.
  17. Glad to hear you're back up and running
  18. There wont be a main one, it will just be chassis ground so anything listed as going to earth will only have to be the thin gauge wires, rather than routing to one big main one. If I was doing a battery relocate I would do the same for the pos and for the earth would bolt the engine/gearbox ground to the chassis leg where the tray was then just put a new mounting post like you did in the boot. Minimal messing around then, the less new stuff you change the less opportunity for something to mess up
  19. Its probably never been done before because the turbo provides a lug more torque so would negate the need for the schrick, Ive seen plenty with a schrick and a supercharger, but like you never with a turbo. So if you don't see the need for the schrick, I know they aren't worth very much so I'll offer you 50 quid for it.
  20. I dont know the solution but over time there has been a fair few people on here, all AFAICR OBD1 older vintages, where they've had the same thing, they get a problem where they have come to their car and the windows were all down through seemingly no reason and started being a regular issue, might be worth having a hard search session.
  21. Its more of a 2 way heat exchanger, when cold the coolant will heat up quicker and pass its heat into the oil, when the oil is at 100'C it then passes its excess heat into the coolant.
  22. The green wire on top of the filter housing that's snapped goes on the back sensor for the MFA oil temperature. The square metal thing with the black plastic cap under the crack pipe is the oil cooler. The aux pump donuts don't come with the pump, they are different top and bottom too so don't get 2 of the same. When my engine came to bits everything was covered in thick black oily sludge, it took a wire brush, about 8 rolls of good thick kitchen roll, about 12 hours and about 5 litres of degreaser to get it all cleaned up, it takes ages.
  23. You can get the grey loctite sealant from halfords
  24. The importance of 2 buckets, grey bucket is the wash bucket, cream is the dirty rinse bucket, see how at the end of washing the wash bucket is still crystal clear, all the dirt is in the rinse bucket.
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