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Lukey.

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Everything posted by Lukey.

  1. You dont have to take the rear beam off and poly give no noticeable Increase in noise vibration or harshness
  2. You can drill and hacksaw them out, but if you're fitting OE ones you will need to press them in, so you either take the whole rear beam off or get creative somehow. Poly bushes will press in pretty much by hand and stops the slack wandering feeling in the rear axle
  3. Another heater matrix telltale is that the screen will steam up if you put the blower full hot on the screen
  4. Yea I did that too, great minds think alike !! Looks like you've got the same alloy door pins too! Pics of the splitter sounds,, interesting
  5. is there like a pink talc residue anywhere on the engine, hoses or expansion tank? this would indicate a leak or bad seal
  6. Bush bolt part nos. http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?472484.0#post_472867 the ball joint bolts are labelled as wishbone outer bolts
  7. just found these http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/itemdetail.asp?catid=2895 http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p2221/GOODRIDGE-SINGLE-BANJO-ADAPTOR-3/8UNF-IN-MILD-STEEL/product_info.html I don't know if they are the correct size or thread but you can get them in different sizes
  8. Night breakers if you don't want HIDs
  9. The callipers fit right onto the stock mk3 carriers and the hoses need to have banjo ends instead of screw on ends, as said companies like goodridge make hoses specifically for it, or any braided hose maker would make them for you if need be
  10. The indicators have been steaming up so I've run sealer round the seams and put in vents using aquarium air tube connectors so as to not let water get in directly through the holes, then a generous dollop of sealer on those too
  11. Guy sounds like a right dick and denying scan tools is only asking for his own trouble as sellers of cars with serious problems are now accountable for the repairs
  12. its either 3 or 33 ohm, a 0.6watt one from maplin should do the job, I just cant remember if its 3 or 33. I think you will also have to fault clear with VAGCOM.
  13. I'm certain he's put an extra 0 on the end as a typo
  14. Mine didn't have an ignition live and I ran my own from the fusebox
  15. yea, you might have to flip the holders 180∘ but the covers should go back on
  16. there wont be direct replacements, but if you get some good quality components then just cut out the original tweeters and mount the new ones in the frame
  17. My LEDs for the interior lights came today Boot light Glove box light Main light And map reading light, this is obviously faulty so am going to get it replaced
  18. dont get the gruven part, so damn expensive, get this instead, VW part no 1J0 121 087B
  19. Got the front and side indicators on now, they were misting up so I've dried them out and put some Vaseline on the seals and run sealer round the joins, cant stand misted lights! Also scotched all the reflector off the inside of the front units as they were reflecting white in the sun, the inside is dull black now so cant reflect
  20. It's G12 plusplus now and you need 2 bottles and the rest is filled up with water. You should only really use VW fluid and it isn't expensive think I paid a tenner for the 2 bottles from a dealer and 2 quid for the de ionized water from halfords. It's 10 litre capacity and make sure you give it a good flush through
  21. Have you tried unplugging the massive multiplug on the ABS pump? I've had the signal outside specification before and leaving the module unplugged for 20 mins fixed it
  22. Hehe yea they are 92 smd bulbs, I did want brighter indicators lol. Theyre supposed to be canbus safe / anti quick flash but they still did so had to take the front bumper off to mount the resistors to the chassis legs, PITA as I started on Sunday evening and had to finish on Monday when it was pissing down all day
  23. Could be your wiper motor, to get those plugs out see if you can turn them with your fingers rather than screwdriver cos as you say they are really soft
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