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Lukey.

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Everything posted by Lukey.

  1. did you bleed the system? could just be an airlock in the matrix
  2. Push the seat right back, in the centre at the front on the floor there is a pinch clip, take this out then remove the plastic rail trims and the seat will just slide back right out of the runner
  3. Yea it's entirely subjective, I think saddle brown looks good on mk5s, no one I know agrees with me
  4. In my view hoses and pads are far more important and will see the improvement, plain flat discs that were bedded in properly are fine for 99.9% of circumstances, grooved discs are noisy and drilled even noisier, and drilled discs can crack just because they feel like it, unless you are purely track and would actually see benefit from them due to slamming full on all the time
  5. I think it will look well in the bay being colour coded
  6. I don't think it suits the shape as much, it doesn't even look the same colour
  7. Ah they do one for the galaxy vr6 it's the same but the firing order and connectors are different it seems a common mistake factors make
  8. I got some standard replacement EBC discs and have nothing bad to say about them
  9. Try to carefully rod them with a straightened coat hanger, being careful not to tear the rubber
  10. Is the inlet black magic too?
  11. Sounds to me like it's best for everyone if you don't have any car
  12. I would say pollen filter first as its lower, sunroof drain would wet the headliner no
  13. Not at all and the coldest it has seen is minus 14. But the thinner 70w80 would be better in colder conditions anyway for that reason. The only reason I would go up to 75w90 is if it presented with this scenario of terrible shifting with brand new oil in to give the gears more of a buffer. As long as its GL4 should be fine.
  14. It depends on what type you will be buying, if you go for fully synthetic then the closest to factory viscosity is 70w80, mineral is 75w90. I put redline MTL in mine. It will take just short of 2 litres, you will need a 17mm hex key to undo the fill and drain screws, make sure to undo the fill screw first, that way you won't drain it and find out the fill screw is immovable.
  15. They are re usable plastic rivets, I can't remember the size but there should be holes for them in the edge of the body and trim, measure the diameter and that's the size you need
  16. position 12 is for the fuel pump, which fits more that its clicking when you're trying to start it, but why its there I don't know, maybe it was a "modification" at some point for some reason or some kind of fix. have you tried removing it and see if that makes a difference. Obviously providing that there's no issue with the sparks
  17. relay number 53 is for the horn, what position is it in the relay board according to this picture? numbers 17 - 24 are for optional equipment, so shouldnt have any effect on the running of the engine
  18. not really its sealed, you could try spraying a water mist over it and see if theres any arcing, if there is its a problem, but if there isnt it could be that its totally had it, the easiest is to try a known working coilpack, a bit of a pain to have to buy one before you know its the problem though hey
  19. i like the arch extensions but dont like the OBD1 look of being textured plastic, i have the extensions on my OBD2 colour coded
  20. immobiliser wouldn't stop spark, it would fire up and cut off after a second or 2. have you gone round every lead with a spark plug attached and the electrode resting on the engine metal and turned the engine over to see if there is spark from any of them at all? All 6 dying at once is pretty long odds so it would suggest coilpack. What is the relay number?
  21. I wanted KWs but my car was having some extensive work at the time and the suspension that was on when I bought it had all smashed springs so I just got the best that I could with the money I had and they were supposed to be just a tide-me-over till I could get KWs, but I have been so happy with them that I've left them on
  22. You lower the car by screwing the spring collar down on the threaded body, so the spring always maintains its length and spring rate. The fixed rate bit refers to the rebound and compression rate of the actual damper, fixed rate is pre set and you can't change it. Higher up models will then be adjustable rebound, higher still will have adjustable compression aswell Spax rsx and ap adjustable are around the £620 mark and ap fixed are around £400
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