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Lukey.

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Everything posted by Lukey.

  1. I had spax rsx on my old clio sport and they were very good, now I've got fixed rate ap coilovers and for the lower price they are very good too their ride is firm but not harsh
  2. By the book is 110Nm if you have a torque wrench, in practise this equates to as hard as you can with your arms with the spare wheel brace, (for me anyway) no standing on the wheel brace lol
  3. Well maybe just give it a check in a few days time when it's all bedded in just to be certain lol
  4. They may be different to genuine ones then I used oem ones 25 quid a side. Edit - just had a look on the eBay page and yea it is different it doesn't have the hex hole on the top.
  5. What do you usually have with your coughee? I sometimes have a sneezee ...... Lol
  6. The top of the threaded shaft has a 6mm Allen key hole in it. If you've managed to get the nut on so the spanner won't move it will have gone all the way on, when I put my new ones in I did the nut up as tight as it would go but there was thread still visible below it and it just span round and I had to brace it with the Allen key to get it all the way on
  7. I would re check the top bolt in a few days or something cos the threaded part could have spun even though the nut felt tight if you didn't stop it from spinning with an Allen key, the weight of the car and the force of driving would have forced it all the way in if it hadn't fully pressed itself in though so I'm just saying just to be sure it's all the way tight give it a check over
  8. Sounds like it should all be there, you have to make sure that the abs unit is installed perfectly square level because of these 3 mercury switches and you'll have to re pipe at the rear to bypass the proportioning valve, don't know how it incorporates into the OBD2 port for scanning/fault finding though, also for self testing on startup with the orange abs light
  9. Acceleration switch is 3 mercury switch G meters in each dimension of travel, I don't know what would be required to convert from 4 to 20 but I would hazard a guess you'd need the OBD2 loom. This information I gave is what I came across when trouble shooting my own ABS issues, but mine is a late OBD2 so i don't know what would be different to the early system, whether it's just the newer pump and ecu with a couple of sensors or much more elaborate
  10. well theres the electronic brake proportioning system, negating the need for a rear beam valve, it has (a form, and capability) of traction control component, though on the VR6 it is only really ice traction via its acceleration switch, it weighs half as much, it has an electronic switch on the brake pedal in addition to the other components in order to react in the fastest time possible. It is probably the most commonly used ABS system still
  11. If it doesnt butt up with the collar off, hot glue fixes Everything!
  12. The abs system went from teves 4 to teves 20. The newer one is much better system
  13. wouldnt the thicker oil be pumped at a slower rate therefore increasing engine temps? It might be fine in summer when ambient temps are hotter but dont know about winter when its minus* 5w30 is way too thin and 15w50 is only the same jump up in viscosity just my initial thoughts about what bad could happen?
  14. Proper fcuked then lol
  15. if you're obd2 its not so simple as they are surface mount LEDs and you have to do a bit of very careful soldering
  16. 1 litre bottle to fill it, so if you want to flush it too get 2 bottles
  17. just had a look and only have a bag of green bungs, thought i had a load of all 3 of them
  18. it wont matter that much you wont get all the old out but just as much as you can. obviously reconnect the hose, i missed that out of the post lol
  19. if a copper pulls you for that they should have the stick up their arse removed
  20. the header tank sensor is for fluid level, i cant remember if its an open or closed circuit, so test by leaving yours unplugged and see if it comes on, and do the same thing bridged. Im swaying more that you can just leave it unplugged and its fine
  21. yes its the only fluid VW do. disconnect a hose and let it drain, then rotate the wheel from lock to lock over and over and it will pump more out. Refilling is the same, pour some in to the fill line then rotate the wheel lock to lock again, top up repeat until the system is full then turn it on and do lock to lock again until it is fully bled
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