if you got a mulity meter you can just messure the voltege coming out of the battery then when you turn the key is theres a huge drop in the battery voltege then your battery is dead, if it starts and the voltege dont rise the alternater isnt charging the battery.
dont worrie i wasnt very clear :-p, so i should start with the fuel pump then? well i will see if i can go swap some parts with my mates vr6 and see if i can get rid of this stupid fault
i might try borrow a few leads and see if that helps, i am running the vr6 exust system and it never realy gets hot, its always at 3k rpm thats the weird bit .
my computer wont talk to the car, i think its the ebay cable tbh though, i have checked the grounds and vacum pipes and there good and working, even added a few grounds just to rule it out, by changing the pump did it cure the problem?
im using the 1.6 pump but they are standered 3bar pumps they dont change through the range, or thats what i think, it was running fine for the first 3 months.
ok guys i posted a while back about my vr6 not giving me any power over 3k rpm and i still have the same problem :-/ i dont know where to look now :-( iv changed the plugs the fuel fillter and made a water shield for the coil pack and its still playing up. i will put my foot to the floor and it will pull through every gear till about 3k rpm then the power sort of halfs and carrys on reving on till the red line, it has lost its top speed, now being around 100mph as it sort of gets there pulls a bit then loses power then pulls a bit more then loses power again. iv un pluged the maf that just mad
thats my problem, i got a mot in 6 months and i think i better get these things sorted soon, dont worrie people iv told my insurence company what iv done.
so yea i got the case where i need to register my car properly and i swaped the vr6 in my self, the dvla require paperwork saying you payed your life savings for some garge to do it :-/ so what should i do?
im not sure how different the looms are but c2 will just remove the immobilizer so you dont need the chip or decoder box, so the only difference in the ecu is it wont go looking for the right code of the key, it will just start and run regardles if you had the key or a screw driver :-p
c2 motorsports did my obd 2 ecu, they re-flashed it so it dont look for the immobilizer, it was 100quid and a two day turnaround, then i just pluged it in and i worked fine :-)