DrRich

Mine did exactly the same when it got hot - turned over without starting. Left it to cool off 10 mins and it was fine. Also, a few cutouts - including one on the M6!!! - again, after a few minutes it would start and run for a few more minutes. That was a long drive home after work... Checked resistance of sensor and it was within spec, but that was off the car and cold. Had a spare old one, swapped it in, no more problems after that. Don't think they're outrageous to buy new, just a bit of an effort to fit - especially if you're lowered... Might also think of ignition swi

From what I understand, it's pretty special stuff and has the property that it 'hardens up' under pressure allowing it to transmit drive inside the blower unit. Normal oil won't do this so can't be used. Don't know if the lubrication properties are different, but this 'mutable' property is the key to our chargers actually working, so you can't do without it... Once it's in, it's supposed to last for tens of thousands of miles (is it 100,000?), so not going to need changing more than once or twice in your engine's lifetime. I got mine from TTS near Silverstone for about £80. Didn't like it,

The car runs well enough, no obvious problems and starts straight away even after a few days not running. However, I've been doing some VCDS logging to help tune it up and sort out my incredibly rich WOT problem (AF meter can't read it), which shows that my injector pulsewidths are massive (11-12ms on Saab reds, with only 8psi boost). I then noticed from the logs that at higher RPM my battery voltage was dropping down to 12V! After checking the battery voltage (engine off, key on I could see that the battery voltage on my meter and on VCDS are around 0.5V different. I tried checking the g

Yeah I've done that, but just want to be as sure as I can before parting with the hard-earned I suppose...

Anyone know which size chargecooler fits between the C30-84 outlet and the TB inlet on an OBD2 VR6? I've pm'ed LizardRacing but don't think he visits much anymore, so throwing it out there now. Anyone know? Cheers

As Lukey says, not particularly important, although when its not working the ECU stops learning how the fuel mixture changes (LTFT) which means it has to work a bit harder to keep a perfect mixture based on immediate info from the lambda sensor (STFT). As long as there's no major problems with any other sensors and your engine's not too worn, it can cope OK. Worth checking the plug into the little blue disc shaped thing and a quick look at the wiring.

Also be aware that if you remove the 'flow straightener' - the honeycomb mesh on the inlet side of the MAF tube - that this 'Short to B+' can happen even when normally aspirated, presumably due to turbulence. I had this problem on my car when still NA having removed it to get that 'extra bit of performance' - deffo not worth it. Only happened when I gave it full throttle, like you say; if I was moderately gentle it never popped up, then immediately appeared if I booted it hard. Once replaced, never had that code again. I imagine it might also happen if you mount the filter directly on the MAF

My OBD2 TB always clicks and hums when I switch on - just like doing an alignment. Doesn't seem to be a problem, even if I don't wait for it to finish, so don't think that's a problem. It never opens to the 90 degrees I expected, maximum is 81.9 on mine - think this is normal. Not sure if 100% takes account of this - ie is 100% 81.9 or a theoretical 90...? My ECU only remembers 'Part throttle' learned on VCDS, not idle. Don't know if this is right or not, but again, doesn't seem a problem. I did find that if the Carbon canister valve (N80?) isn't plugged in it won't learn at all, so I've plugg

Thanks fellas. I think Emerald is probably still my favourite at the moment and is not too far away when I need a tune and some help. Cheers for replying

Beginning to think about going standalone, after finding it so difficult to work with Motronic 3.8.1 on my VR6. It's a pain having to pull the chip (disconnecting battery for safety, so having to 'relearn' settings) every time I want to tweak a tune. Also, there's no decent documentation I can find so it's been a slow, self-taught learning process to work out how the car 'thinks'... So, standalone seems a sensible option - configurable, flashable through a USB/serial port, perhaps multiple maps, even 'self-learning' from a wideband in some cases. I've looked around and come down to 3 options -

OK cheers Craig. Better get a proper boost gauge hooked up then - currently using a Gunson LoGauge - which actually works quite well but I can't look at that and the road at the same time...

Just wondering if anyone knows how much boost a C30-84 with a 75mm pulley will produce on our engines. I bought one second-hand - love it! - but have a bit of detonation around 3500rpm when I get on it. Had the charger off at the weekend chasing down a belt alignment issue and just in passing measured the pulley diameter. When I plugged this into the 'holy interweb of truth', there wasn't much info but one post in the Corrado forum, by mrfusion, suggested that Storm told him he was producing around 15psi with this set up. I was told it would produce 6-10psi - no wonder it's detonating (no comp

Ok thanks gents. Back to the drawing board then...

Just a (hopefully) quick question about this. On my Rotrex set up it's possible to move the idler pulley around to adjust tension on the belt, presumably to accommodate different sized pulleys or AC / non AC setups. This leaves me with a small problem, as I'm having trouble properly tensioning the belt, which squeaks a little when cold, although it does mostly go away when warmed up. What I need to know is whether the tensioner is always under the spring tension or not. Here's a piccy: So, when properly fitted and the bolt removed, should there be any gap between the two red arrows (and if so

Yes, agree with Pete here. It's not the top figure that matters, its the huge spread of low down torque that fills that 'gap' that exists below about 4000rpm. Accelerating on the motorway from 70 can be easily done leaving it in 5th - try that with the standard mani! Really changed the overall character and for the price its really worthwhile. With a remap it is probably even better, but I never had one and it was still superb (had both OBD1 and OBD2). Only sold mine because I found a superb deal on a Rotrex charger, but even with this fitted, for daily driving the Schrick was probably a littl