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DrRich

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Everything posted by DrRich

  1. DrRich
    Mine did exactly the same when it got hot - turned over without starting. Left it to cool off 10 mins and it was fine. Also, a few cutouts - including one on the M6!!! - again, after a few minutes it would start and run for a few more minutes. That was a long drive home after work... Checked resistance of sensor and it was within spec, but that was off the car and cold. Had a spare old one, swapped it in, no more problems after that. Don't think they're outrageous to buy new, just a bit of an effort to fit - especially if you're lowered... Might also think of ignition swi
  2. DrRich
    From what I understand, it's pretty special stuff and has the property that it 'hardens up' under pressure allowing it to transmit drive inside the blower unit. Normal oil won't do this so can't be used. Don't know if the lubrication properties are different, but this 'mutable' property is the key to our chargers actually working, so you can't do without it... Once it's in, it's supposed to last for tens of thousands of miles (is it 100,000?), so not going to need changing more than once or twice in your engine's lifetime. I got mine from TTS near Silverstone for about £80. Didn't like it,
  3. DrRich
    The car runs well enough, no obvious problems and starts straight away even after a few days not running. However, I've been doing some VCDS logging to help tune it up and sort out my incredibly rich WOT problem (AF meter can't read it), which shows that my injector pulsewidths are massive (11-12ms on Saab reds, with only 8psi boost). I then noticed from the logs that at higher RPM my battery voltage was dropping down to 12V! After checking the battery voltage (engine off, key on I could see that the battery voltage on my meter and on VCDS are around 0.5V different. I tried checking the g
  4. DrRich
    Yeah I've done that, but just want to be as sure as I can before parting with the hard-earned I suppose...
  5. DrRich
    Anyone know which size chargecooler fits between the C30-84 outlet and the TB inlet on an OBD2 VR6? I've pm'ed LizardRacing but don't think he visits much anymore, so throwing it out there now. Anyone know? Cheers
  6. DrRich
    As Lukey says, not particularly important, although when its not working the ECU stops learning how the fuel mixture changes (LTFT) which means it has to work a bit harder to keep a perfect mixture based on immediate info from the lambda sensor (STFT). As long as there's no major problems with any other sensors and your engine's not too worn, it can cope OK. Worth checking the plug into the little blue disc shaped thing and a quick look at the wiring.
  7. DrRich

    MAF clamp

    DrRich replied to sharky_70's topic in Engine Tuning

    Also be aware that if you remove the 'flow straightener' - the honeycomb mesh on the inlet side of the MAF tube - that this 'Short to B+' can happen even when normally aspirated, presumably due to turbulence. I had this problem on my car when still NA having removed it to get that 'extra bit of performance' - deffo not worth it. Only happened when I gave it full throttle, like you say; if I was moderately gentle it never popped up, then immediately appeared if I booted it hard. Once replaced, never had that code again. I imagine it might also happen if you mount the filter directly on the MAF
  8. DrRich
    My OBD2 TB always clicks and hums when I switch on - just like doing an alignment. Doesn't seem to be a problem, even if I don't wait for it to finish, so don't think that's a problem. It never opens to the 90 degrees I expected, maximum is 81.9 on mine - think this is normal. Not sure if 100% takes account of this - ie is 100% 81.9 or a theoretical 90...? My ECU only remembers 'Part throttle' learned on VCDS, not idle. Don't know if this is right or not, but again, doesn't seem a problem. I did find that if the Carbon canister valve (N80?) isn't plugged in it won't learn at all, so I've plugg
  9. DrRich
    Thanks fellas. I think Emerald is probably still my favourite at the moment and is not too far away when I need a tune and some help. Cheers for replying
  10. DrRich
    Beginning to think about going standalone, after finding it so difficult to work with Motronic 3.8.1 on my VR6. It's a pain having to pull the chip (disconnecting battery for safety, so having to 'relearn' settings) every time I want to tweak a tune. Also, there's no decent documentation I can find so it's been a slow, self-taught learning process to work out how the car 'thinks'... So, standalone seems a sensible option - configurable, flashable through a USB/serial port, perhaps multiple maps, even 'self-learning' from a wideband in some cases. I've looked around and come down to 3 options -
  11. DrRich
    OK cheers Craig. Better get a proper boost gauge hooked up then - currently using a Gunson LoGauge - which actually works quite well but I can't look at that and the road at the same time...
  12. DrRich
    Just wondering if anyone knows how much boost a C30-84 with a 75mm pulley will produce on our engines. I bought one second-hand - love it! - but have a bit of detonation around 3500rpm when I get on it. Had the charger off at the weekend chasing down a belt alignment issue and just in passing measured the pulley diameter. When I plugged this into the 'holy interweb of truth', there wasn't much info but one post in the Corrado forum, by mrfusion, suggested that Storm told him he was producing around 15psi with this set up. I was told it would produce 6-10psi - no wonder it's detonating (no comp
  13. DrRich
    Ok thanks gents. Back to the drawing board then...
  14. DrRich
    Just a (hopefully) quick question about this. On my Rotrex set up it's possible to move the idler pulley around to adjust tension on the belt, presumably to accommodate different sized pulleys or AC / non AC setups. This leaves me with a small problem, as I'm having trouble properly tensioning the belt, which squeaks a little when cold, although it does mostly go away when warmed up. What I need to know is whether the tensioner is always under the spring tension or not. Here's a piccy: So, when properly fitted and the bolt removed, should there be any gap between the two red arrows (and if so
  15. DrRich
    Yes, agree with Pete here. It's not the top figure that matters, its the huge spread of low down torque that fills that 'gap' that exists below about 4000rpm. Accelerating on the motorway from 70 can be easily done leaving it in 5th - try that with the standard mani! Really changed the overall character and for the price its really worthwhile. With a remap it is probably even better, but I never had one and it was still superb (had both OBD1 and OBD2). Only sold mine because I found a superb deal on a Rotrex charger, but even with this fitted, for daily driving the Schrick was probably a littl
  16. DrRich

    Which cams?

    DrRich replied to DaveGT's topic in Engine Tuning

    I would agree with wardycatt here. The cams do make a noticeable difference in top end; suposedly some low down grunt is lost but I didn't notice. Schrick 268s are the common upgrade, giving a decent bit of extra power and still a smooth idle (on my OBD2 anyway). For forced induction, you are fine with the stock cams, as 'bigger' ones just blow the mixture out into the exhaust and waste power. 'Proper' forced induction cams would be best of course (I think they have more intake duration but less overlap). The best naturally aspirated setup is a Schrick VGI manifold and 268s, allegedly deigned
  17. DrRich
    Soldering is without doubt the best, especially in the nasty engine environment. A butt crimp will work at first but can easily shake loose or corrode and change its conductivity leading to all sorts of hilarious troubleshooting consequences...
  18. DrRich
    I suspect this would work OK - a bit like using the VW repair wires. Only problem I can see is that the reason you need to use the tool is that it disengages the 'locking' tabs (you can see them on the side of the boxy section of the metal connector) allowing you to remove the connector intact. By pressing them out, you may have damaged the tabs so that they no longer stay fixed in place; did you feel a 'click' as you pushed the new wire into the plug housing? From memory it's subtle but definitely detectable. If the connector is not 'locked' in place properly, then the male pin will just push
  19. DrRich
    Unfortunately, the answer here is 'with difficulty and special tools'... These are called 'Junior Power Timer' (JPT) connectors - there are also Junior Timer (JT) terminals which are the same except a different method of weather-sealing. More info about the connectors and differences: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?239997-Difference-between-Junior-Timer-and-Junior-Power-Timer-connectors You'll need to remove the terminals from the plug, which is very difficult without the right tool. Fortunately, Laser do just such a tool and I think it cost me about 9 quid or so - not too terrible. He
  20. DrRich
    The ECU expects some fuel in the vapour and under some driving conditions lets this into the manifold as part of the total fuel the engine needs, so if the canister is gone, there's no way to be sure how much fuel vapour is being added, which throws the mixture a little. STFT should accommodate this but it may have a small effect on LTFT. All in all, probably not worth stressing about too much - I ran mine like that when I installed the BMC CDA, and just plugged the pipe to the engine to stop a vac leak. The pipe from the tank should be open to allow venting of pressure due to temperature chan
  21. DrRich
    You only need the solenoid plugged in electrically - mine is stowed away next to the fusebox in bubblewrap (to quieten the annoying ticking!) and the LTFTs work properly. I just extended the wire to reach the fusebox because the relevant wires from the ECU had been cut by previous owner. If your wires are still in the engine bay then leave the solenoid in there and you can still remove all the pipes etc. as you see fit.
  22. DrRich
    Took a few pics of Craggsy on the Sunday doing his infamous 'sub 12' run... Was nice chatting with you mate.
  23. DrRich
    I think Ben and russj are correct here. I've got a Rotrex with the Schrick 268's still in and although there's a nice pick up at 4000rpm, my wideband shows lean at moderate throttle opening (ie not enriching as much as at WOT). I've been reading around a bit and it seems that overlap is undesirable on any supercharged cam (as russj says, boost blows some of your mixture straight out the exhaust valve), so when I get home I'm planning on swapping the standard cams back in. Most of the forums seem to agree that the Schimmel and Autotech 263's are good for boost, and Schrick sell their 268/264 gr
  24. DrRich
    Hi from holiday in Florida While I'm here, wondering about nipping down to URO Tuning and picking up one of these gaskets for $54 + tax. I've read mixed reviews so wondered if anyone had any experience with them? My 6 is Rotrex charged, so a bit of heat shielding might be helpful in bringing down the intake air temp - if only by reducing heatsoak of the sensor - and allowing better ignition timing... Not expecting a miraculous change or anything (which some of the negative reviewers seemed to be) but for a relatively cheap and easy mod, might give it a go... Any thoughts?
  25. DrRich
    Brilliant! Thanks everyone for all the genuinely helpful replies. Suppose I'll just have to get used to the idea of keeping topped up... First five replies within a couple of hours of posting - feels good to be part of this community!
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