DrRich
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Everything posted by DrRich
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Wow - thanks for such a rapid and helpful response everyone. So is the external swirl pot a separate unit - ie not the part from the original pump housing? How much are these?
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I'm thinking of buying one of these (the GSS430 seems to be the recommended model) but have read differing opinions regarding whether it is necessary to keep the tank above 1/4 full. That would be doable but a bit of a hassle and I would find myself always worrying about running too low going round a left hand bend (perhaps in a 'spirited' fashion) and starving the pump and risking it burning out. I've looked at a few threads where people say it should be mounted low in the swirl pot and I'm sure I could manage that - I've currently got a spare pump in pieces on the bench and it looks reasonab
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Success!! Worked like a charm. Thanks guys.
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Thanks fellas. I'd tried something like this before from the Ross-Tech wiki but missed the initial Login step and didn't wait 2 minutes at the end. Fingers crossed...
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Can't thank you enough for this mate. Will give it a try next time I have a moment - daughter's school play tonight so won't be allowed in the garage... Cheers for your time!
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Hi all, just got a charger for my car which came with a remapped ECU. Also got the immo black box and a chip from the key, so I've got the whole system. My question is, do I really need to swap the black box too - ie is it 'hard-wired' to only accept the original chip from the key. I've got VAGCOM and know that a new ECU can be 'introduced' to the system using the Immobilizer Group. It would help a lot if I don't have to swap the box - it's a MK2 conversion, done by previous owner and I can't see the box anywhere obvious - ie behind carpets, by centre console, behind dash etc. Don't really wan
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I've got a Peloquin in mine - possibly the mod that made the biggest overall change to how the car drives. Pulls out of corners so well, feels totally planted on the twisties and even helps get the power down from a standing start better. This was well worth it IMO. Think the Wavetrac is even better (more modern tech) but haven't read much about them since I've already got the Peloquin. Think the ESL is a primitive traction control; works up to something like 17mph but not above. I *think* it brakes a wheel when it starts to spin but could be completely wrong. Better than nowt I suppose! I say
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Got a few of my own here... Am I right in thinking 'Sick' is now 'Stig'? Had a good day, saw some nice cars, should have come over for a chat. Bit too much air-cooled for me but some nice metal all the same. Looking forward to GTi Festival now...
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I would just say that when I removed the mesh from my OBD2 MAF I kept getting a MAF code (short to B+, intermittent) when I was, er, enthusiatic with the throttle. This never happened to my OBD1 cars. This was a normally-aspirated engine, with a decent amount of pipe before the MAF opening from my BMC CDA. Not sure whether the code caused any running problems (didn't notice any) but to an anal-retentive like me DTCs are a problem...
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As long as ALL the other components are working correctly (MAF, coolant and intake temp sensors, camshaft position sensor, spark plugs, injectors, throttle body position sensor) then your mixture will be pretty close to perfect and there'll be no problems. Any sensor fault could cause trouble without you knowing it. Also, there'll be no way for the engine to account for the ravages of time (bore or piston ring wear, ageing injectors or plugs, etc) so that may throw the mixture off a little. So, as long as you think the rest of the engine is OK, you'll be fine and should pass emissions at the M
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As I understand it, you don't actually NEED a cat at all, but you risk failing on emissions without it since the limits are much tighter for post '92 cars than pre '92. Having said that I've certainly heard and read of people whose cars have passed emissions without, but I imagine your engine would need to be in perfect shape and running well, good lambda sensor, etc. Depending on how much work you have an appetite for, would be worth giving it a go then asking a local garage to test your emissions far ahead enough of your MOT to put it all back. Unfortunately, without trying it for real, you'
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Well, whatever it was, the main thing is it's going well now! I'd strongly recommend a TB clean when you have an hour or two though - it has made a huge difference to how smoothly the engine runs in my cars before now. Congrats, and I hope it stays fixed!
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From what you've said it really sounds as if the TB disc would benefit from a clean. OBD2 controls the idle by adjusting the position of the disc to allow a controlled amount of air past. If there's too much carbonized crud around the edge of the disc, and also around the inside of the TB passage, then that amount of air is changed; the TB will adapt to the buildup over time, constantly changing its idle stop point, but eventually it will reach a point where it can't get it right. Also, the crud doesn't get laid down in a convenient, symmetrical manner, and the TB expects airflow to increase l
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Wouldn't think there's likely to be too much problem if it drives well off idle. There's no code for the lambda sensor, which might allow dangerously lean or rich conditions (and even then only under extreme circumstances like prolonged full throttle - ie racing - which you wouldn't do on a public road now would you?) Looking at your pictures doesn't throw up any obvious problems. Another place to look for a vacuum leak is at the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve - it's the pipe that comes out the back of the crankcase, has a corrugated pipe, with a plastic disc-like thing in the midd
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I would clear these codes, now you've made a note of them, and drive again for a bit - some of them could be historical so worth seeing what comes back. A coolant sensor is cheap (around £15 from GSF/ECP) and easy to replace, so might be place to start if that codes returns. If your copy of VAGCOM allows, it might be worth calibrating the throttle body. On mine (a '96) that's by changing to 'Basic Settings' and putting in 098 into the box. You'll hear the TB running through its range, wait about 30 secs just to be sure, then "Done, Go Back". It should say "ADP OK", anything else means a fault
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Does it make me a complete geek to say that I think that is fantastic!?! Never been excitds about windscreen wipers before but now hoping for rain...! Cheers for opening my eyes to yet more VeeDub brilliance! -
It does still sound like a vac leak to me (the off idle hesitation as well) but the MAF could be to blame since you tested it. It might be worth giving the sensor element a spray with electrical contact cleaner (Maplin sells good stuff, think Halfords sell it too). What I do is: 1: Take MAF off car (undo hose clips at each end and it pulls out of the pipes) 2: Spray cleaner onto the thin 'wafer' in the middle, both sides 3: Let it dry off (takes a few minutes) 4: Refit. I'm assuming your MAF is the same as mine (since yours is a '97) - thanks to the Vortex for this pic: I also wipe it with a
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The hissing noise sounds like a vacuum leak to me. If you can get it to idle at all, poke around the engine bay listening for where the hiss comes from. There are two vacuum hoses at the front which are in the intake plenum area (front right as you look from the front of the car). The small diameter one goes to the fuel pressure regulator, the larger one goes to the brake booster at the bulkhead. I have found the rubber gets perished on the larger one where it connects the intake to the long plastic piping - worth a look. It might not be obvious that the piping is broken when it's in position
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Boost reading on N/A car from OBD reader
DrRich replied to DrRich's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
This one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Soliport-ELM327-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B004KL0I9I/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt Worked immediately out of the box with the phone. Bit harder to get it working with Vista though (useless Microsoft cr*p). Works fine under Windows 7 but VAGCOM doesn't (well, not my older version at least...) Thanks UM, guessed it might be load since I'd never read about any vac sensor in the manual. -
Hi, I've got an Android phone and bought a Bluetooth adapter to plug into the OBD port. It talks to my phone via the Torque app which I have paid for (as it's such a superb app I wanted to thank the author). The app is updated frequently, often adding new features and yesterday I noticed that in the list of sensors with data it showed "Boost/Vacuum". I had a look, expecting garbage, but found that it shows a reading which tallies with my vacuum gauge - eg 22mmHg at idlw (closed throttle) dropping to eg 5mmHg with the throttle open. It varies during driving in exactly the way you would expect.
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Hi Chris, If you're in work this week I could bring a spare MAF and coilpack for you to try. They're late OBD1 from a '95. Lambda still on car at the mo so can't help with that yet. Could VAGCom as well if we fix a meet in the carpark. Let me know, I'm in Tue, Wed, Fri this week, everyday next week in ITU (bleep 4321)
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Well, Kev was spot on. After furtling around under the dash I eventually traced one wire from the ECU, and followed another from the fuse box. Spliced wires to a spare connector, plugged in a spare N80, and stuffed it up behind the fusebox. Test drive showed adaptation already!!!!! Result!!!! Only problem is the valve chatters away while it's working - not normally a problem if it's in the engine bay but loud in the cabin! Still, I'm more happy that the ECU is adapting so I'll live with the noise until I can be bothered to extend the wires... So it looks like it's true that the ECU won't learn
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Thanks Kev, I suppose I'll have to brave the wiring... I can find the green/yellow wire as it exits the ECU but not sure where to tap into the blue/red return. Previous owner ran the wires down the chassis legs so can't get at it there... I don't have an AFR gauge, been thinking about one - Innovate perhaps. The car is modded - decat, VGI and 268 cams, 4 Bar FPR (because it was spare when the old when broke, not because I thought it would improve performance) amongst others so I can't believe it would run normal AFRs without adjustment. According to the Torque app on my phone, the STFT does va
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Hi, my ECU doesn't seem to learn any adaptation values. It's an OBD2 from a '96 Golf, in a Mk2 chassis. The previous owner did cut off the Carbon Canister solenoid (N80), so this always shows as a fault on VAGCOM, but I've heard others with the same code but whose ECU does learn. Basically, in the measuring blocks for idle/mid range adaptation the values are always 0. I'd love to think that my engine has a perfect balance of air and fuel all the time, but that doesn't seem likely... One other thing is that it may have been remapped in the past (it's been rolling roaded at Stealth but no mentio
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connection plug toair flow sensor(meter)
DrRich replied to marcevans2010's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Glad I could help. Nice to pay back a little for all the advice and learning I've had from here over the years!
