kentyboy

cant be right as i know of one tucked away in a garage not been out for at least five years apart from a little clean up and run up now and then.................

does the abs light come on and go off? as i had this problem when i had a problem with my abs.....turns out it was a bad connection to the abs bulb,for some reason it puts the handbrake light on...or makes it flicker...

dirtysanchez..... get the camber adjusted by your local tyre/suspension place,if you jack the car up,remove the wheel,where the strut meets the hub at the bottom there should be two nut and bolts going through the strut,if you undo both of these,just loosen them,then the disc,hub assembly can be moved in or out to whatever angle it needs to be set at...mine is angled in at the top so that it just misses the arch,if you over do it though it will scrub the tyre out on the inside.......good luck...

i am running 17s on mine and its quite low,have 40 walls on the tyres,but have had to have the camber adjusted on the front as it used to just touch the arch on cornering...its fine now,or as dirtysanchez says.you can get the arches rolled...

with the info you have put up they should do....you can google the offset for a vr ..i think its 35...good luck..

could be a dirty cam sensor,easy to remove and clean...gotta be worth a try for nothing,or plugs breaking down...

dont think its quite as easy as that,after reading the previous threads.....

i know its wrong,but to get you out of trouble,why not wire it to the airbag light....much easier as its in the same unit.....

hi! just a post to put the feelers out really,whilst doing the tensioners etc on my vr,i managed to break one half of the multi plug for the engine loom,its the bulkhead side of the loom,the twist clip piece that locks the two parts of the multi plug together,just wondering if anybody is breaking or has one that they would like to sell.even if the wires are cut off as long as possible so that it can be spliced back on my car.any help would be much appreciated as at the moment it is being held together with tie wire.......cheers

just got a quote from performance direct for £375,3k mileage...online quote...went to buy it and it went up to over £700,with wheels and suspension mods declared,got it through marks and spencers of all places for £427 in the end...with mods declared...i dont understand how they can charge such different prices..

had the same on new years eve mate,relatively easy fix,i tried to re weld it back on in situ but was a nightmare even with the front seat out,ended up removing the clutch pedal,welding the plate back on...the bugger wont break off again,putting the pedal back in,a little tip...compress the spring in a vice and put a cable tie around it to hold it compressed,put the spring back in place and just cut the cable tie and remove the tie...much easier than trying to squash it back in...i alsoundone the master cylinder bolts to allow room to put the white clip back on....i got a new one from vw....onl

right....found the problem...tensioner bolt has some how lost pressure,allowing the cam for 2,4,and six to jump back a tooth.....re timed it back up,filled the tensioner with oil,re fitted it and it is now as tight as....turned the engine over to check compressions,1,3,5,and 6 have now 12 bar plus.....2 and four have 0...suspect bent valves...have started stripping out...have also noticed upper chain runner has cracked in two places,and the upper tensioner has also worn pretty badly....any ideas on cost to replace tensioners? can do the head myself...

ok........ a quick update. took her apart this morning,and it looks like the cam for nos 2,4 and six has jumped a tooth,is it worth timing it back up and seeing what compressions i have before stripping it out,i figure i have nothing to lose by this.....?

yep!!!! good old fashioned hammer and chisel.................or oxy acetylene bottles...thatll get the bugger........

cheers guys........will keep you posted....