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kentyboy

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Everything posted by kentyboy

  1. kentyboy
    cant be right as i know of one tucked away in a garage not been out for at least five years apart from a little clean up and run up now and then.................
  2. kentyboy
    does the abs light come on and go off? as i had this problem when i had a problem with my abs.....turns out it was a bad connection to the abs bulb,for some reason it puts the handbrake light on...or makes it flicker...
  3. kentyboy
    dirtysanchez..... get the camber adjusted by your local tyre/suspension place,if you jack the car up,remove the wheel,where the strut meets the hub at the bottom there should be two nut and bolts going through the strut,if you undo both of these,just loosen them,then the disc,hub assembly can be moved in or out to whatever angle it needs to be set at...mine is angled in at the top so that it just misses the arch,if you over do it though it will scrub the tyre out on the inside.......good luck...
  4. kentyboy
    i am running 17s on mine and its quite low,have 40 walls on the tyres,but have had to have the camber adjusted on the front as it used to just touch the arch on cornering...its fine now,or as dirtysanchez says.you can get the arches rolled...
  5. kentyboy
    with the info you have put up they should do....you can google the offset for a vr ..i think its 35...good luck..
  6. kentyboy
    could be a dirty cam sensor,easy to remove and clean...gotta be worth a try for nothing,or plugs breaking down...
  7. kentyboy
    dont think its quite as easy as that,after reading the previous threads.....
  8. kentyboy
    i know its wrong,but to get you out of trouble,why not wire it to the airbag light....much easier as its in the same unit.....
  9. kentyboy
    hi! just a post to put the feelers out really,whilst doing the tensioners etc on my vr,i managed to break one half of the multi plug for the engine loom,its the bulkhead side of the loom,the twist clip piece that locks the two parts of the multi plug together,just wondering if anybody is breaking or has one that they would like to sell.even if the wires are cut off as long as possible so that it can be spliced back on my car.any help would be much appreciated as at the moment it is being held together with tie wire.......cheers
  10. kentyboy
    just got a quote from performance direct for £375,3k mileage...online quote...went to buy it and it went up to over £700,with wheels and suspension mods declared,got it through marks and spencers of all places for £427 in the end...with mods declared...i dont understand how they can charge such different prices..
  11. kentyboy
    had the same on new years eve mate,relatively easy fix,i tried to re weld it back on in situ but was a nightmare even with the front seat out,ended up removing the clutch pedal,welding the plate back on...the bugger wont break off again,putting the pedal back in,a little tip...compress the spring in a vice and put a cable tie around it to hold it compressed,put the spring back in place and just cut the cable tie and remove the tie...much easier than trying to squash it back in...i alsoundone the master cylinder bolts to allow room to put the white clip back on....i got a new one from vw....onl
  12. kentyboy
    right....found the problem...tensioner bolt has some how lost pressure,allowing the cam for 2,4,and six to jump back a tooth.....re timed it back up,filled the tensioner with oil,re fitted it and it is now as tight as....turned the engine over to check compressions,1,3,5,and 6 have now 12 bar plus.....2 and four have 0...suspect bent valves...have started stripping out...have also noticed upper chain runner has cracked in two places,and the upper tensioner has also worn pretty badly....any ideas on cost to replace tensioners? can do the head myself...
  13. kentyboy
    ok........ a quick update. took her apart this morning,and it looks like the cam for nos 2,4 and six has jumped a tooth,is it worth timing it back up and seeing what compressions i have before stripping it out,i figure i have nothing to lose by this.....?
  14. kentyboy
    yep!!!! good old fashioned hammer and chisel.................or oxy acetylene bottles...thatll get the bugger........
  15. kentyboy
    cheers guys........will keep you posted....
  16. kentyboy
    what i am gonna do is strip it at the weekend,get it to tdc on no1 and see where the cams are sitting,i cannot understand how it has possibly jumped on one cam and not the other.is it possible that the cam has snapped? have done head gaskets etc on my old gti's etc,the only concern that i have is the chain at the top..do you lock the cams and then take the gears off? and then what to do with the chain after...when i bought the car last year i was told that it had recently had a head gasket done,surely they would have at least changed the tensioner etc at that point...it had a little rattlewhen
  17. kentyboy
    right,an update.....done compression tests...no1 has 10bar,no 2 has no compression,no3 has 10 bar, no4 has no compression,no5 has 11bar.and no6 has 6bar......any ideas before it gets taken to pieces..........?
  18. kentyboy
    cheers for that guys,have done the thread search myself.gonna do a compression test tomorrow just to eliminate which cylinder its on.has anybody had any problems with hydraulic lifters sticking....as it sounds like its at cam speed....could be a valve but its really weird how its happened on startup....
  19. kentyboy
    amazing,all these people on here....nearly a hundred views and not one person has a clue.....or can offer any advice...
  20. kentyboy
    or could it be that the timing chain has jumped a tooth at start up....?
  21. kentyboy
    help...went to fire the vr up this morning and something weird happened...turned it over and heard a couple of pops from the exhaust,it fired up and then made hell of a noise from the engine and sounded like it was running on five or four cylinders.it sounds like a knocking noise from right at the top of the engine,could it be a hydraulic bucket shot,as sometimes when starting it used to make a little rattle for a second or two,or could it have dropped a valve, it was fine when i came in last night with it though,no untoward noises or anything.....
  22. kentyboy
    if the battery is flat you usually get a succession of clicks on the statrer motor when you turn the key,or nothing.if the starter is u.s you either get a click and the lights dim in the dash or again nothing at all,have you tried bump starting the car,that will eliminate the starter problem...or try giving the starter a slight tap with a hammer as the solenoid may be playing up...
  23. kentyboy
    all new pete,done them when the old abs sensor broke off in the stub axle,just replaced the lot new, it was cheaper and easier,and whilst apart seemed wrong not to for what it cost. cant work out why it gave same code when i swapped the wires over under the seat? unless theres a problem with the wire from the back to the ecu..but that doesnt explain why when i go in reverse and then pull away it turns the light out...
  24. kentyboy
    yep,done that numerous times and it keeps coming back,can clear the code,light goes out,can leave the car running not even move it and after a while the light comes on on its own accord,or if i drive off, the same thing can happen..getting frustrating now.
  25. kentyboy
    hi...having a few problems and wondering if anybody can help...when starting car up,abs light stays on,if i reverse out of the cul de sac where i live and go up the road the light goes out.now, the light may stay out for ten,fifteen miles or it may come on again a few hundred yards up the road,have vag comed it,it shows rear right abs sensor,have replaced this,and ring.same thing happens,have even swapped the leads under the rear seat,and still the same code comes up.its driving me nuts as to what it is....have been given a known working abs unit and ecu,can i swap out the ecu on mine for anot
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