rbertnitro

Hi i had been getting constant maf error codes for some time so decided to give it a clean.anyway i got a bit excited and broke the wafer element.Picked up a brand new one same part/same part number etc fitted perfectly,all codes away but now im getting a slight hesitation on acceleration mostly from low revs below 3000ish its almost like a small misfire then a second later away it goes,def isnt as punchy when i get on the throttle.it wasnt like this when i had the maf error code drove as normal just with rubbish fuel consumption.im noticing my fuel consumption is better with this new maf but

thanks i will check them out. gonna inspect the original mounting points see if they are up to the job as they look very rusty and flaked away

Hi.wondering if anyone can help me with some info with my mk3 fuel tank problems. Friday the middle of the 3 fuel tank straps snapped.the other 2 look rotten and worse for wear too, so far ive managed to rig up sum sort of temp fixing using multiple bungee straps and 2 lengths of thick guage earth cable round the rear beam and round the rear bumper steel.question being is these 3 straps the only thing that stops the tank falling out the car and would holding it up with wire/straps etc round the rear beam and bumper iron secure it enough for me to get it (10mile) home for proper fixing. also do

Forgot to add when i bypassed the ign switch and 'hotwired' it as such. There were some sparks so those wires were getting power. Just no turning over.

Hi all. Needing some thoughts on my issues with a non start. At the very least im needing a new coil pack, the body is cracked and a post has fallen off. Rewind to friday night ran well no issues parked up and not run for couple days. Monday tried to start struggled but starter did turn over,tried again and it struggled more, third time nothing.Got booster cables out and connected up to helper car,Nothing. At first i thought the jump leads didnt get a good connection but small sparks and the helper car dropping revs when i turned on my fans confirmed there was a solid current path. I tried d

Hi im looking for some info on power steering pumps. I hit some debris and the damage its done is knocking the small right angled pipe connector for the rubber retun hose on the bottom of the pump. The 90deg pipe is now really wobbly in the pump and leaking fluid past. Question is. Is this part just on a thread and a screw in pipe fitting, if so it would seem the thread has just broken and is now loose. Can you get these parts seperate or use some other form of metal pipe fitting? as the rest of the pump itself looks good as are the pipes and rubber hoses. Thanks

Hi il be doing my rear axle bushes soon and replacing them with poly types, think id be safe in saying a majority of vr owners are doing this when the stocks fail,what with the easier fitting and what not. I was also having a look at the poly front top mounts and rear top mounts. What are everyones opinions on these? Im wanting to maintain a pretty comfortable stock ride however at the same time tightening everything up and having a nice responsive handling car, If you know what i mean. Would be great to hear your views on them and from folk who have used them vs the stock ones. Also wha

Hi ive got the mot coming up very soon. My rust inspection went well and theres no major worries. Except for a patch down where the rear arch meets the quarter panel and rearmost part of sill,its been bubbly for a while and recently a piece broke off revealing a small cavity.it seems as if this part is double skinned or has become delaminated or something as its not penetrating thru to the inside,theres just a little pocket inside the bubble. So far i have used some kurust inside to turn it black and stem the rust spread.Is this area something that will fail an mot,or is it an idea to get it w

Hi im needing some help with my situation here. First i have a stuck open thermo, a leaking matrix and a leaking water pump im also 99.9% sure i have water leaking thru the HG. For the past while i have reached a kind of stable state where i will loose hardly any water if i keep moving and when things are getting a bit hot put the heaters on full and or stage 3 fan that ive wired up to the dash. If the needle just sits below middle its fine but if i let the car idle more than a few mins and heat up more i get steam from the matrix and leak from the pump and random whisps from the exhaust, if

excellent thats not too bad price. will check my local TPS for the pump then and just get the plastic pipe parts off ebay

Yeah that kind of makes sense. this will prob be where the water stream down by my pulley is originating then. As long as its dry when in use and nothing connects to them. Also does anyone know what the diffrence on GSF between the 'standard' and 'premium' water pumps are? theres a tenner between them

Im planning a major cooling system overhaul soon i havent ordered a main pump yet but was wondering what the 2 ports highlighted are? im assuming these will be sitting outside the block just behind the pulley,i have visions of water gushing out on start up lol. Ive read lots of diys for the pump replacement and none mention any additional pipe connections to be made to the pump. Do these need a blanking plug in them or something? thanks for having a look

Hi im having some problems with my osr strut. Been getting a rapid knocking noise over the bumpy bits.initialy this just started to happen after i swapped from my factory 15in wheels and put my bbs 16s on as the tyres were better. Ive since undone the top part of the strut jacked up and dropped the strut down thru the hole slightly to have a look at the inside rubber, so far everything looks in good condition no movement or noises either when bouncing on or moving diffrent parts of the rear susp its all solid and tight, the shocks are dry as a bone and feel good. Starting to do my head in now