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c00k

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Everything posted by c00k

  1. c00k
    Use the old block of wood or screw driver trick to help pin point the sound more, Put a thin bit of wood or long screw driver on the touching underneath of sump put you ear touching the wood or screw driver, and listen for the knock. Now repeat on cylinder head, time chain covers, the louder the knock the near you are to the problem, by testing in different places you should be able to determine the rough area of the problem. If the con rod bearings have spun badly and misshaped or scored the crank, just replacing the bearings will not fix it. As mentined ab
  2. c00k
    Spent the last 2 weekends touching up stone chips blending them in with 3000grit, wet sanding small scratches with 3000 grit, cutting lacquer back, and detalting the body work, I'd say between the 35-40 hours in total. In order it went: clean and wash car, clay whole car, to remove any small tar spots or contaminates on surface. check whole car for stone chips and scratches. Clean stone chips of any existing wax or crap built up in them, touch up with colour coded paint and lacquer mixed together, (this takes a very steady hand, tiny paint brush, a lot
  3. c00k
    Many things to consider when making a forced induction engines and air and fuel ratios. When it comes to the air side if things..... Cool air is better yes. Denser air is better with more oxygen. More humid air is worse. (More water vapour) Piping, width and how it flows is also a factor. More bends and corners the more this restricts the air flow. The longer the piping the more drag. To wider pipe for to lower pressure will slow the air flow. Coolers... front mounts, side mouns, air to water, they all cause quite a lot of drag.
  4. c00k
    Boosted OEM+ gets my vote.
  5. c00k
    Sounds like a plan, what width is the spring loaded coupler, if it's about 10mm then its been used instead of the 3rd bearing.
  6. c00k
    Yeah man We've been chatting in PM also.
  7. c00k
    PM'd
  8. c00k
    Nightmare mate, atleast it didn't hydro lock, so long as you get rid of all the water like your are doing, hopefully all should be good. Snorkel kit you need, going up side of windscreen haha
  9. c00k
    Fair play mate, loads and loads of work gone in. Keep it up dude, and will be mint in not to distant future.
  10. c00k
    You can re-aline the throttle body using vag-com. Im not sure of the angle off the top of my head sorry, but re-alining it with vag-com should solve any angle issues.
  11. c00k
    Loads of mk3's, should be able to make a very nice VR6 out of all 3
  12. c00k
    Looks cool, keep the updates coming.
  13. c00k
    Looks good buddy, The building next to my work does vinyl wrapping, i've wrapped quite a few things over the years, started by getting tips off the guys who work next door. 3M accredited is what you want to look at doing, 3-4 day course if I remember right. And 3M vinyl is meant to be one of the best to buy an use. They do some brilliant work next door to me, they did a show car scirocco in matt grey. Some of the top place in my opinion are Raccoon graphics, Pop-in graphics, and Brandz vehicle wrapping. I almost had my black VR wrapped a f
  14. c00k
    Loads more has been happening as well, but I will update soon......
  15. c00k
    Got my Audi 80 gauges fitted, and all wired up. Not hard at all to wire up, just need 12v, 12v switched, ground, illumination, and single wire each for the sensors. I was suprissed at how easy they were to fit. Fainly got a photo of my boost gauge that has been in there ages now lol All the gauges have red illumination to match dials and all my switches. I've had my 280mm steering wheel in there for ages now, I do still like it but fancied a change. So I bought an Audi TT mk2 flat bottom steer
  16. c00k
    Going to be a beast!!! Keep it up buddy
  17. c00k
    You'll get there in the end mate, compressor test you piping, to check for boost leaks. Few DIY guide on you tube if your not 100% sure how you do it. It's easy to make the stuff you need. Plus you need a compressor with an adjustable regulator you can set to the same as you max boost.
  18. c00k
    Cheers buddy
  19. c00k
    Well done buddy
  20. c00k
    While I had the rear bumper off I sorted a few patches of rust on the rear arches, before they got to bad and turned in to holes, One of the rusty areas. Like I said before this is just my daily. Not a mint show car. Ground the areas back so almost all the rust was gone. Then started to treating the very minor remaining rust with rust treatment gel, and wire brushing it. Another area I ground back before treating remaining rust. The very bottom of the rear inner arches wasn't the best either, so need attention. It look
  21. c00k
    Removed the rear bumper to give it a good clean, put cavity wax and underseal in a few places before winter. Stinking dirty rear end. Removed the bumper brace, and gave it a good clean. Put cavity wax in the rear chassis legs. Ground back a few tiny bits of rust on the rear bumper brace while I had it off the car. Gave it a good clean, quick sand and painted it in underseal. Refitted it with new stainless washer and nuts. While I had it up on the ramps I swapped the middle exhaust bushes for some polyurethane one
  22. c00k
    I'm after a genuine VW thermostat housing, After just main housing, but will take a whole unit if buyer wants. Must be genuine VW not aftermarket. No splits or cracks. And No inner lip missing. Cash waiting! Cheers Cook
  23. c00k
    Welcome buddy
  24. c00k
    Fair enough dude. Main thing it got you there and back with very little drama
  25. c00k
    Nightmare mate. Still it not that bad for the amount of miles the old girl did Why didn't you chop the end of wire instead? And put a new terminal on. Could of save the alternator, and rebuilt and refurbished it.
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