EnthusiastOwned

I even bumped the thread a couple of times and no one took notice. Always the way.

It's a Bosch Motorsport coilpack fitted to various Ferrari's, TVR's, Saab's and Vauxhalls. Can be picked up for around £120. It requires an old VR6 coilpack as you need the metal cradle and ICM (Ignition Control Module), a bit of cutting of the cradle and some basic wiring. It's a perfect fit, looks 99% OE, utilises the original HT lead fittings and produces an extra 12,000v than the VR6 coilpack. Plus it is meant to be bullet proof. There is a basic guide over on the Corrado Forum for it.

Thanks. It's always the little things. I didn't really check the FPR vacuum hose as I replaced it for a new one around 12 months ago, it looked perfect but the rubber insides were rock hard and perished. Genuine VW stuff too. Think I might get some silicone hose.

Final update. I reset the ECU once more, performed the standard adaptations, throttle body etc. let the car idle for a bit and went for a drive to set all the ECU learning. The car now pulls like a train. Idle and start up are perfect. The power delivery is progressive and the car pulls from 1,000rpm through to redline without a hiccup. It was definitely the FPR vacuum hose causing the majority of power issues and lumpy idle, the dead OBD1 EVAP solenoid was causing the ECU not to learn values which was rectified by a replacement OBD2 solenoid. All the other senders and switches just helped w

Sounds like it'll just fall off in use. Tap a new one in.

I think a new crank sensor would be next on the list. Bit of an update.. I've fitted a replacement EVAP valve and it works as I can hear it clicking. The ECU now learns lambda settings. Also, I had a play about with more vacuum stuff and the pipe from the FPR to inlet just ripped in half. Hmmm.. Possibly the issue? Fitted a new one and went for a drive. Seems more pokey and idles better. The exhaust is more raspy now and pops on the overrun like it used to. Still doesn't seem 100% though. And now to top it off when I start the car the RPM's drop to almost stalling point and rise to a healthy

Bit of an update on this.. I've fitted a genuine Lambda Sensor as it had a NGK one in there. No difference what so ever. Very similar readings on VAGCOM from both sensors. Anyone need a working Lambda then? I reset the ECU. I then fitted a new genuine blue temp sensor, changed both knock sensors for good genuine used items from a '97 VR6 and I also changed the crank sensor from the same car but it wasn't genuine, although looked very new. Started the car and it idled ok for a few minutes then cut out and wouldn't start, VAGCOM pointed to the crank sensor. I swapped back the old sensor

When you changed the coilpack, for a new one or used? It sounds to me like you changed a failing coilpack to a duff one.

Good question. I had an old Polo GT which suddenly lost all power whilst on the motorway, literally wouldn't go over 70mph. But it still drove really nice and smooth, it felt the same but with half the BHP. I noticed that the exhaust kept blowing at the downpipe and on cold morning's and the condensation would come from there instead of the tail pipe. That turned out the back box internals had disintegrated and blocked the system. But I don't think that's the case here as it's more engine hesitation and poor running rather than just down on power. I'll give the exhaust a good looking ove

Found a new solenoid valve, just waiting for it to arrive. Last night when driving the car, tootled around under 3k rpm until it was warmed up, no issues. I then put my foot down and the car instantly bogged down - severely. The car just had no power, it was struggling to rev at all and even at 40mph, 2nd gear, it was struggling to keep that speed. After about 30 seconds I pulled in and with the car idling I sat there scratching my head. I decided to limp home so turned the car around and the car was back to normal. It just felt like a hiccup. Bizarre. Any idea what it could have been and d

Right, you have a OBD2 Golf. Use every ancillary from the Golf. Wiring, inlet manifolds, throttle body, lambda, everything. You essentially want to use the tall block from the Corrado - head, bottom end and internals. You can remove the timing chain cover which houses the dizzy and replace that with the timing chain cover from the Golf which houses the Coilpack. Simple as that.

It's all about the Ferrari F50 coilpack.

My car had a sticking tappet on cylinder 1 and also a tired valve stem seal on cylinder 6 so my car puffed blue smoke after the over run every once in a while. I used the old ATF fluid trick first to clear out any gunk. Wait until you are due an oil change then drain 0.5l - 1.0l of oil from your engine. Top up using the cheapest ATF fluid you can find and run it for 50odd easy miles (no track day style thrashing); then drain and change your oil and filter. The science - An engine flush oil additive just breaks off any built up gunk so it just floats around the engine and can block other oilw

From what I've seen over the years a good coilpack will last around 10 years. I don't think it's the heat transfer from the engine which kills them really. I think it's the residual heat in the engine bay as it's always the front of the packs which crack.

I found mine warbled are burbled more with the cat in. With a de-cat it sounded more raw, metallic and raspy. It lost the deep resonating sound. A 6-branch however really amplified the sound it made. In a good way. De-cat or not.