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EnthusiastOwned

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Everything posted by EnthusiastOwned

  1. EnthusiastOwned
    Lump out in seven hours!!? I pulled a lump out in around two. I was stripping the car so I wasn't too careful; but it's not that hard of a job with the right equipment. I'm doing my head soon and I'm 100% going the engine out route. Yeah, it's more long winded but there will be less swearing and you'll be able to inspect the full engine and the bay much easier. I'm planning around 4 days work as I want to clean mine up and paint a few parts.
  2. EnthusiastOwned
    That would be my hope, if not it could just be a re-cast head or something?
  3. EnthusiastOwned
    What's the quality like? I spoke to them and all they have left is a Schrick head - Whatever that means?
  4. EnthusiastOwned
    When you say VEGE, is it a genuine head which is reconditioned or a re-cast?
  5. EnthusiastOwned
    Hey you guuuyyyyssss! I have a cylinder head I was going to rebuild; it's pitted: I was planning on getting it cleaned up, removing the valves and having it skimmed, but I'm not sure that this is this useable / repairable? If it is how and what needs doing?
  6. EnthusiastOwned
    So OE gasket for a six branch? Thanks for the input fella's.
  7. EnthusiastOwned
    I need to re-new my exhaust to head gasket. I have a stainless 6-branch. It came with a thick gauze style gasket, but I know OE is a thin metal one. Which is best for a 6 branch? And where to buy it? Thanks.
  8. EnthusiastOwned
    That looks ideal really. Think I'll give this a go.
  9. EnthusiastOwned
    That blue paste?
  10. EnthusiastOwned
    I will be skimming my head, the block however is staying put so it can't be decked. I'd still rather use the gasket sealant to be sure. Someone must know where to buy it or an equivalent?
  11. EnthusiastOwned
    In an ideal world yeah, but judging by the previous posts people have made; metal gaskets are know to leak from the one way oil valve near cylinder one and copper spray has solved it. For the sake of £10 it's not going to hurt.
  12. EnthusiastOwned
    Hello, I'll be replacing my headgasket over winter using a later metal headgasket. I've done some research and everyone recommends using a copper spray to seal the gasket; specifically 'permatex' copper spray. The issue is that a lot of the threads I'm finding are from a few years ago and the issue is I can't find a UK supplier of any copper gasket spray. It appears due to being an aerosol, no one will ship it anymore. What do people recommend to use now?
  13. EnthusiastOwned
    Hello, I have just completed my OBD2 conversion on my Corrado VR6 and I'm a little concerned by my throttle body. Long story short the conversion went sweet, then yesterday when I was playing about I dropped a spanner and it shorted the two battery terminals. As far as I'm aware it's done no damage... But...When I first did my conversion and I aligned the throttle body I swear the butterfly fully opened 100% then closed again. Where as now when I align the throttle body it literally moves a few cm then closes again. It also moves a few cm's, (buzzes and clicks - exactly like it's doing an alig
  14. EnthusiastOwned
    Does anyone have a diagram or photo showing the brake hard line routing to and from the ABS system? As in which inlet and outlet goes from the M/C to the ABS to each wheel. Long story short I've just fitted a Teves 20 system from a (post 95) Golf VR6 but I have no idea how the pipes route. I can only find diagrams for the pre-95 cars. Any help would be appreciated.
  15. EnthusiastOwned
    Hello, I am in the process of fitting a Teves 20 ABS system (from a late 97 Golf VR6) into my late 1993 Corrado VR6. It's all in place, it's just wiring at the fusebox side of things which I'm getting confused with. There are essentially 4 wires coming from the ABS system to the fusebox which then splits a little. So there are 6 wires in total. Here are the 4 wires coming from the ABS looms ECU connection to the fusebox. These have been physically traced and also confirmed with wiring diagrams. grey/white - Pin 16 grey/white - Pin 13 black/red - Pin 12 black/yellow - Pin 23 Now, at the fusebox
  16. EnthusiastOwned
    Thanks for the info Pete. It really helped. I'm pretty much done with the loom now. It's all in shape, everything is chopped out and any splicing of the OBD1 plugs has been done. I've spent hours tracing and comparing every wire on both looms and it should work first time. The only thing left to do is remove each plug pin and feed the Corrado grommets onto the loom and then fully wrap it all; for that nice OE look For reference the loom tape has the part number: 000 979 950 and is £5.42 RRP +vat for a roll.
  17. EnthusiastOwned
    No, it won't work. They are VERY similar, but some plugs are different such as the lambda, MAF and throttle body - Completely different shapes so they won't plug into each other. Also some of the wiring routes and earths are slightly different.
  18. EnthusiastOwned
    Ahh, ok. So effectively you're making a copy of the wiring from the OBD1 loom? Nothing else fancy or random connections? Any idea of the tape part number and how much is needed please?
  19. EnthusiastOwned
    I'm in the middle of my OBD1 to OBD2 conversion on my 1993 Corrado. I'm at the stage where I have both the Golf and the Corrado wiring looms sat ready to be stripped and I'm a little unsure exactly what needs to be done. The only guide I've found is on the Corrado Forum and it's a little hazy in places. Does anyone know of a more comprehensive guide anywhere? I am in the thought that I need to match up the OBD2 wiring loom with the OBD1's - Remove anything which isn't used from the OBD2's. In short, make sure I have the same fusebox end connections and also the same auxiliary end. Anything thi
  20. EnthusiastOwned
    I've spent the past few hours stripping a 2.8 VR6 engine down which came from a 1997 MK3 Golf. As I removed the gearbox I noticed the flywheel 'looked' worked. I've removed it and placed it next to a spare one I had which came from a 2.9 VR6. The one just removed looks noticeably thinner and weights approximately 1kg less (on the bathroom scales!) compared to the spare I had.. Both have the part number: 021 105 273 H. The only difference in markings on the rear is that the lighter one says 'F&S 1' and the heavier says 'F&S 4'. It's not had enough weight stripped off to have been int
  21. EnthusiastOwned
    Fishwick!? What hasn't he done! I want to be his prodigy.
  22. EnthusiastOwned
    Good point about the ABS light. I'll have another look at the loom before it all gets stripped. If I manage to get round to fitting it all and getting it working I'll be doing a how to anyway. Thanks for all your help
  23. EnthusiastOwned
  24. EnthusiastOwned
    ABS unit? that makes sense! Just been going over the loom and the ABS loom literally goes from the ABS unit, to all for ABS sensors on the wheels, to x2 separate fuses which clip on top of the fuse box, an earth, x2 battery live feeds and then there are a few wires which go to a crossover style board. From what I can see there is one which goes to an earth crossover, one for the brake pedal switch crossover and one for ignition on. And that's the loom really. So I'd presume that the earth and ignition crossover's get activated on a turn key and the brake pedal crossover which will activate the
  25. EnthusiastOwned
    Thanks for the reply. Well I've stripper the ABS loom from the car, well most if it and it doesn't fasten to the fuse box directly, but has a few wires going to a contact board instead. You've been a hero already, but you wouldn't happen to know where these acceleration g-switches switches are?
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