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Jimmysan

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Everything posted by Jimmysan

  1. Jimmysan
    Pulled the clifford box out, won't go into detail but I've bypassed the immob and car is cured. Got to decide what to do know, don't want the immob/alarm but then I'd loose remote locking? I can't work out where the loose brown cable goes, traced other end back to the earth point for the fuse box on the door pillar, but seems like an add-on
  2. Jimmysan
    Aha, I've found this http://www.eserviceinfo.com/preview/Clifford.Concept.300.Wiring.gif thanks Pete for the pointer, indicator feed is brown! sounds promising! Will report back after trying to sort this tonight Thanks
  3. Jimmysan
    ok thanks Pete
  4. Jimmysan
    Reason I ask is because I have non-start/cutting out issues, thanks
  5. Jimmysan
    Also, I have a small hidden button (microswitch?) attached to my gear stick, how does this work, it is part of the clifford system, but not mentioned in the manual
  6. Jimmysan
    Can anybody give me any ideas as to where I should look for the control unit / box The black and brown clifford cables feed across the central console under the steering wheel and deep towards the driver footwell, from there I can't see the box. Could it be on the other side behind the glove box? Thanks in advance
  7. Jimmysan
    Just to note, the factory immob is bypassed (assumed by the fact that all wiring from the conlog box is cut) Pretty sure my problem lies with the immobiliser, just can't find the control unit
  8. Jimmysan
    anybody know likely places to find the clifford control unit, behind glovebox or above fusebox?
  9. Jimmysan
    Pulled the fuse box down last night. Found the power supply for the clifford system clipped into a connector behind the fuses, (it pulled free when I dropped the fusebox so suspected loose connection but this is not the problem, still cutting out when indicate) But still couldn't see the clifford box, the black and brown cables seem to go right to the back of the footwell? The conlog box (guessing this is the transponder?) is there just hanging loose with it's wires cut, Only other thing that looked suspicious was a single small brown wire coming up through the footwell just past the fu
  10. Jimmysan
    Fault codes recorded last night: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 00532 - Supply Voltage B+ The problem has got worse and I'm getting the dash lights on once then if it locks out I have to wait overnight to get the dash lights on again (I've tried another battery so don't think it's that) Planning to change the ignition switch tonight, not hopeful it will fix it but thinking it's worth a try before I take it in to a garage?
  11. Jimmysan
    Good point, not had any related codes when I scanned it. The fact that the indicators cut the engine points to the Clifford as thats wired to the indicators
  12. Jimmysan
    Anybody any advice on how to test the factory system; reader coil etc?
  13. Jimmysan
    Could be the same then, is it beneath the alarm siren which is bolted behind the battery? Hmm master key, any bodge to get it open?
  14. Jimmysan
    So spent hours last night with a friend that's got some experience with fault finding. Concluded that the immobiliser is a prime suspect, It's a Clifford concept 300, but could well be the factory immobiliser? Could not get the dash lights on all night, so this problem has got worse over time. At the point of giving up now and taking it to an auto electrician, really don't want to pay out though because I'm selling it in a week! Any help with immobilisers, I can't locate the box for a start? Don't think it is ignition switch but could be wrong, never have intermittent lighting etc
  15. Jimmysan
    No never heard any buzzing/whirring from the clocks. Anyway, not tested the car since taping up the exposed wires, taking it for a drive when get back from work tonight, fingers crossed
  16. Jimmysan
    Yes I get the buzzing sound - fuel pump priming? Occasionally the ABS pump makes a lot of noise, and sometimes I get a rather loud high pressure sound coming from under the intake manifold. The secondary water pump seems tempermental - it will some times be clicking and then come to a halt, and sometimes I can knock it and it will start ticking again. Can I ask why you are asking, as I don't have starting issues, only cutting out when driving issues thanks
  17. Jimmysan
    I have a Clifford alarm/immobilser - before I can crank the engine I have to press a button on console and unlock button on key at the same time to get dash lights on, but when the car dies it takes varying amount of time for this procedure to work. Car fires fine everytime, it's this ECU timeout that I don't understand, also timeout tends to take a lot longer when engine was warm before it cut out.
  18. Jimmysan
    Ok thanks, got it off, took the plastic ring and rubber seal/ring off first and twists off a lot easier. Were 3 or 4 golden brown looking female pins, so gave them a clean. Main finding last night was that the rear left lighting wires had been taped up in the past because about 8 wires of one loom have clean breaks around the insulation (copper is ok), as though someone has put a guillotine across them – really strange! It’s possible that the wires are shorting with each other, the reverse light is also within this cluster, and would explain why indicating left cuts the engine more than in
  19. Jimmysan
    Pete, this is the one multi plug i've struggled to disconnect, there is a tab thats snapped off it but I still can't twist it off, is there a trick to this? It did seem damp. When you say pins on the ECU plug are you talking about the same thing? I am thinking of changing the blue coolant temp sensor but played around with the existing one last night and don't see how that can be at fault, it doesn't run without it and runs fine with it! I idled the engine for about 15min last night, puttting into reverse is ok 9/10 times but sometimes cuts it, indicating left cuts it most of the time, i
  20. Jimmysan
    Ok thanks, the one near the throttle body is fine, I thought there was one further down on the head from reading on the net, but can't see it so maybe not.
  21. Jimmysan
    Which earth cable are you thinking? They look fine, the one I haven’t found is earth point on the rear of the head – can anybody help explain how this can be accessed? Pulled the ECU out and all looks fine under the rain tray. My problem is temperature related, once warmed up and upon cutting out, it takes 10-20minutes for the car to be restarted, which is one reason I changed the coil pack, but this didn’t fix it. I have thought about changing the coolant temp sensor but can’t see how this would cut the engine completely? Also, I said earlier voltage between battery neg and earth poi
  22. Jimmysan
    Cleaned starter earth even though looked ok. Battery reading 14.6V when engine running, charged up to 12.5V after running engine for 5min. I have measured 0.15V from battery neg to bonnet earth strap point with engine running lights in etc, so clearly an earth fault. But really stuck as to where this earth fault is coming from?
  23. Jimmysan
    battery tested when removed from car at 12.2V - this is low i know, but has been left in cold for few days- will test with engine running tonight. Battery is a Bosch S4 075 - 60Ah, 540 CCA - reading about this I believe this is slightly underrated? Question is, can a semi-charged battery cause the random cut out i'm experiencing?
  24. Jimmysan
    Forgot to mention, I have scanned for codes and I get 00668 - terminal 30 low voltage, think this came up after changing the battery, but it has reappeared since clearing it few weeks ago.
  25. Jimmysan
    Found the washer jet heater lead to left side has been cut in the past, and on the right side has not been cut but the brown cable has come loose, not sure if this is touching bare metal though, if so then the bonnet earth strap would not do it's job as it is rotten. Anybody think of a reason to cut 1 of 2 washer heater leads? Could this be enough to cause the engine to lose power? I've now disconnected both washer heaters and plan to fit a new earthing strap. Also found that the right fog light is loose and not supported? Checked grounds under battery tray, seem fine, thats as far as
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