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Sump_slammer

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Everything posted by Sump_slammer

  1. Sump_slammer
    150k. Now I think about it im stupid for not doing them whilst it was out. Just getting frustrated with it being a money pit. Ive done all the work myself and the car cost £1100 and ive spent £2000 in parts - thats at cost price to vw as my mate works there. Now im looking at ££££'s again to do the bottom end. Just to be at square one what I originally wanted when I bought the car - a working low vr6. Im sure ill calm down in a few days and carry on with it just feels like its always the long uphill route for this project. Not to metion last time i rebuilt it the roofers came round and filled
  2. Sump_slammer
    Right, starting to loose the will to live with my vr. First the headgasket was gone and started to pressurize the cooling system. So fitted a new headgasket. Cooling system fixed. Then started to puff blue smoke on the over run. Valve guides were work out. So back off with the head new guides and new valves fitted. Problem fixed - for about 3 weeks and its started puffing blue smoke under load and on the over run - not all the time but mostley when hot. So checked my engine breather and it is breathing blue smoke on idle - a fair amount. So is this now the piston rings?? Im telling myself it i
  3. Sump_slammer
    No quench I think is the proper way of saying it
  4. Sump_slammer
    Nope as its a flat cylinder head it wont rise the compression.
  5. Sump_slammer
    Nice bit of kit. Being v1 its got straight cut gears which will make it a little more noisy, not a bad thing as after all id want people to know ive spent money on my car. How much did that set you back?
  6. Sump_slammer
    Roofers broke engine!
  7. Sump_slammer
    Im in the process of going supercharged. Ns tuning told me not to bother with a spacer plate upto 8 psi and they never fitted one on any of there supercharger conversions and theyve been doing it for over ten years. As for head gasket and bolts dont bother with arp. If you up the Boost later to 10psi or over - which you cant with a vortech v2 as aparently it over works the charger and will throw its toys out the pram then put a set of arp stud is. As for gasket you can get a victor reinz of ebay or gsf.
  8. Sump_slammer
    When bolting it back on deffo use a mk4 metal head gasket if your staying with na. Let us know how you get on and do power runs at your local dyno at each stage so you can see whats made a difference.
  9. Sump_slammer
    Whats your goal for bhp? Pete is probably you best bet as I think his carrado is the highest na vr on the forum. But big money to do it. But here is what ive picked up from here and know from older projects. First off the 6 branch on a vr6 has very limited gains as the ports are un equal aparently there is only one company thats actully managed a exhaust manifold with gains. Never looked into which company because its so pricey. But heat is an enemy so heat wrap it up to lower you engine bay temps! Mk4 metal head gasket is a cheep way to higher the compresion of the engine more compresion help
  10. Sump_slammer
    Also KS valves were flown in from Germany next day.
  11. Sump_slammer
    Marley valves, unavailable. Now going for ks. Also german. A local motor factors did say we can get ultra parts, I questioned where do they come from? They said "Italy" so my response was "the day I put Italian valves in my german engine is the day I die" some people just don't understand!
  12. Sump_slammer
    Let me stress I'm not going down this route as I want to do it properly. But there are so many people who say you cannot fit a eaton supercharger to a vr6 because there "isn't enough room". Isn't there?? Well how comes this dude's rocking one? I personally couldn't live with the racket of a eaton charger as it drowns out the vr noise. But check out this you tube link and see what you think? Not sure its my cup of tea, but as we have so many new vr owners signing up and wanting cheap power, why not show them this? Not sure what the hp gains would be or how the power delivery would compare to
  13. Sump_slammer
    Problem is the engines on the stand atm and the heads off. Looking at the bores they have a lip on them, but that sounds common on these high milage vr's but no score marks. Think I will just bang the chains on and head on and build a bottom end up at a later date. I have more fun things to think about like putting my cams in and saving for my supercharger
  14. Sump_slammer
    Cant belive in the whole country there are no sets of good exhaust valves. Im not going to euro car parts because of how rubbish quality everything is. My machine shop can only find 3 marle valves in the country so they are having to come from germany! I guess the only people rebuilding vr6's in this country are on this website!
  15. Sump_slammer
    So whats the score with bottomends aye? How can you tell the bores are worn? What sort of mileage can you expect out of them? Do you need to replace the rod bolts and main bolts? Whilst its apart checks on the oil pumps? What involved? With a bare block taken into a machine shop what is the average price for a slight overbore? Also with a slight overbore do you just use oversized piston rings? Or do you end up using new pistons? Im asking these questions as ive currently got the lump out to do the chains and valve guides. Im starting to think what the hell lets open up the bottom end and see
  16. Sump_slammer
    I have the same problem but on my drivers window. Drives me mad.
  17. Sump_slammer
    I dont want to be going down this route but whats involved with sorting uneven bore wear? Slight overbore and new piston rings? Or is it a case of overbore and new pistons? Whats the average price at a machine shop for this?
  18. Sump_slammer
    Well just a update, went down to the machine shop to drop off my genuine stem seals and for some reason all my exhaust valves have a slight bend in them which they found when spinning them up to recut them so they are only cleaning on one side. Very strange, but I have a feeling this may have been the slight "popping" sound on idle which it had intermittently. But as for make of valve I think ill go for MAHLE valves as they are a good german engineering company.
  19. Sump_slammer
    Also whats 3.68 fd?
  20. Sump_slammer
    Your getting me worried now lol, why was the block terminal after 120k?
  21. Sump_slammer
    New block aswell? Whats the plans for this one?
  22. Sump_slammer
    Youve probably seen my other post, but I spoke to vice today and he helped out with which guides to use. But turns out valves are not required and all the play was in the guides.
  23. Sump_slammer
    Ive got the head off, all the guides are fubard the engines done 150,000 miles. Spoke to vince at stelth and he pointed me in the right direction of a good set of guides, problam is im in essex so im going to use my local engine builders. Went to my local engineering shop and they have confirmed just the guides need doing and they said that the guide im using are a very good spec. Cheers vince! Ill be down soon for my map when the chargers on.
  24. Sump_slammer
    Ok so after pulling my head off it revieled all 12 valve guides are worn. So new valves and guides are needed. What make of valve is recomended? Ive been to vw and for all 12 valves im looking at £270. Does anyone know which company made te valves for vw? Any info on this will be grateful.
  25. Sump_slammer
    Sorry not stem seals, valve guides.
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