JakeP

Right, been busy recently as I have finally gotten a job and time for an update on the build, I have just bought Ky's 3.0 Litre block with forged pistons , turbo manifold and ht leads, Ive ordered a short runner intake, exhaust valves, 630 cc injectors, mocal oil cooler, and just bought UM pro maf and tial wastegate off black dubs.... Now what rods to get, anyone got any ideas on good forged rods to buy to fit the 3.0 litre block?
And here is the block and pistons that will be on its way monday
Edit: ZRP con rods bought now just waiting for it all to turn up and get on with it

I'm the guy who's bought it

Also just placed an order on Schimmel for 263 Cams, Timing chain kit and High performance bearing set

So Kys 3.0 block with forged Pistons ht leads and turbo manifold came as well as more goodies ! Zrp rods , 630 injectors , Mocal oil cooler , short runner intake came today as well !

I'm the guy who's bought it

Ky placed it in the manifold as a surprise haha , been wearing it proudly lol , probably the first lanyard I've ever owned

Bloody hell, didn't know we were giving away free 3.0 engine blocks with our lanyards now !

So Kys 3.0 block with forged Pistons ht leads and turbo manifold came as well as more goodies ! Zrp rods , 630 injectors , Mocal oil cooler , short runner intake came today as well !

Ok change in direction! Going N/A keeping it simple for track use.

I'm the guy who's bought it

Looking forward to this :-)

Sooooooo a lot has happened to the car since my last update so I'll be updating soon as to how it is now

Err, I used to use frozen solid above but been a while - they'll give you a quote dep on cogs/parts, if they have to strip box etc - used to have the details on their sites but it seems to have changed now - factor a couple of hundred I suppose sending them cogs n shafts. Few years though.
Ask them what they charge for stripping box and see if they can check the state of your parts. Just because the stock box is taking 200lb/ft doesn't mean it'll blow the first time you put it at 400lb/ft - you can only tell for sure if you strip it and look at it plus cryo/heat treatment is about toughening - if tolerances are too out/parts too worn then it affects the stresses which equals damage.
Point I am trying to make is things like this;
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/fulcrum
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_(mechanics)
Do this - put your hands together fingers in between fingers - however put them so the tips of your fingers are essentially touching the base of the others - the end of your palm where your fingers stick out from and pull them apart - easy right. Now interlock them properly like you're going to crack your knuckles and try - much harder! Due to mechanics the stresses they can now take are far more yet the stresses remain the same - it's the way to think in tuning really.
That being said, use your stock box and slap and LSD/ATB on but it'll give more stresses due to increased grip. "Will my box hold up?" - No idea, not looked at it! But if you want strength and reliability lots to think about and can cost! Ways to sort it like treatment but if the base isn't up to scratch then even these techniques, as much as they help, will not be a "be all and end all" answer without doing everything else!
Another simple way to think of it - the fingers technique and this pic - now imagine if there were no gaps, the additional stresses they could take - same goes for your gearbox and the too vague "will it hold up?" questions. No-one can really say for sure due to many reasons but there are ways to go about protecting components and depends on your budget really!
http://static.flavors.me/dynamic_images/custom/3be35abdd35d4a54b33edc7c3b48f005
Same with the 02m and some gearbox pro's now offering two strengthening parts for two different shafts - mechanics and torsional stresses - in that case with the 02M on two different planes due to multi-shafts

Wouldn't really make a difference in "strength" per se, maybe ratio at torque level v's rpm. If you want longevity, I would literally think of it this way;
1. "Is my gearbox in good condition?" - are the teeth worn too much? Can someone or you do a check on the state of your box? Using perhaps dyes or other such techniques? A poor base means a bad start!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_particle_inspection
http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/Magnafluxing.html
2. "Can I afford someone to modify the strength of my box?" - if so, how? Assuming it's too expensive to manufacture your own box/cogs, what about heat treatment, even though your stock box has gone through thousands of heating and cooling cycles in it's life. Will heat treatment or cryo freezing be a wise idea....can I afford it?
I all honesty, it's not covering the basics that costs people the most money, stock boxes are usually rated to 200-250lb/ft from the factory but 02M's can do 700+lb/ft or 02A's 500+, depends if the basics are covered!
3. Clutches - what boost you looking at, what can you put up with for a daily in terms of pedal feel/grippy/noise, cost etc? If you go aftermarket that can clamp these massive increases in torque under FI then are the teeth in the box as new as stated earlier - if not will they shred due to gaps?
Point is - you can take a risk with your box, even buy 2/3 pretty cheap to replace, but if you are spending money, you have to think about the basics, it is what destroys parts. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_barrier_coating
http://www.zircotec.com/
http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/
 
"No point putting a bucket under a leaky roof, fix the roof itself!"

Not sure with bearings dude as I havent touched the bottom end. If your going the full hog a nice little mod would also be to fit the mk5 R32 sump, oil pump and pick up from the BUB or BDB engine. If you throw it into corners hard quite regularly. It has plastic inserts which act as windage and surge baffles. Works a treat and bolts right onto any 12 or 24V VR6 engine.

The MK5 sump sits slightly above the subframe wishbone bolts, so in theory the s/frame should kiss the ground first.

Just something for you to think about pal. Not sure on what turbo yet but quite like the precision for reliability. What box and clutch are you going with?

You know, i'm not convinced that the ar makes that much of a difference on box breaking, the math/physics doesn't add up. Shock of slip to grip exerts far more force and modulation of that force would be better and on things like an 02M there are angular aspects to take note of. 02A and the like it's when it grips 4th/5th usually and that can depend on boost level, tyres, turbo bearing system etc. There's also material used as stock, the degree of heat treatment or hairline fractures of your stock box etc hence cryo treatments - there are far too many things to do with the box/drivetrain that explain breakages than turbo ar ratio in my opinion!
I think 034 did coated bearings, no reason you can't get stock and have a coater do the same I suppose but that's about slippage and thermal load protections - engine dependent of course but again - thermal loads can be lessened with such coatings and slippage could as easily be a worn engine or a poor engine builder using bad tolerances!

I think I'm going for the Garret GT3582R with a 1.06 ar for a later spool to help the gearbox haha , what bearings are a good buy? Seeing as ive got time want to try and make it right and put some decent main and big ends on it, any suggestions?

Looking forward to seeing this up and running dude. What turbo are you going for? This might give me some determination to finish mine off. Haha

Sounds good, not hanging about then? Nice reliable base to build from.

Hi guys new to the group this is my mk2 gti with a vr6 conversion ,  it's been my daily project for the last 18 months , look forward to meeting other vr6 owners at gti Spring fest 

Right, been busy recently as I have finally gotten a job and time for an update on the build, I have just bought Ky's 3.0 Litre block with forged pistons , turbo manifold and ht leads, Ive ordered a short runner intake, exhaust valves, 630 cc injectors, mocal oil cooler, and just bought UM pro maf and tial wastegate off black dubs.... Now what rods to get, anyone got any ideas on good forged rods to buy to fit the 3.0 litre block?
And here is the block and pistons that will be on its way monday
Edit: ZRP con rods bought now just waiting for it all to turn up and get on with it

Hi mate, welcome to the forum! There are plenty of threads for turbo projects, I myself am in the middle of one too!
Heres some of the threads: 
 
 
 
Plenty to have a browse at and get some advice and ideas!

I am interested in these for my build , are they 6 pots ? I'm struggling for money but when I eventually have enough and still available I'll probably buy them
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February last year
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I was 19 and insured my vr for £1500 with 1 years no claim with elephant
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