dave_424
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Everything posted by dave_424
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I believe that some people go for some of the newer technology turbos like the Borg Warner EFR range of some other brands with billet compressor wheels, but I think it's a fantastic turbo for our engines. I'm still on stock connecting rods and pistons so it'll do everything I want to and more
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I got mine from www.turbodynamics.co.uk but RBPE on here could have gotten me a slightly better deal. Also got my Tial wastegate from turbo dynamics and got that at trade price Car is going great at the moment, boosting up to about 12psi its crazy fast. I've put 200 miles on it with zero problems
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Read my build thread here http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/topic/46794-v6-4motion-turbo-build-thread/ Granted it's a 24v engine but most of the ideas and fabrication is the same between all vr6 engines. I'm using a Garrett GT3582R ball bearing turbo with a .82 AR exhaust housing. In a high gear I can get full boost right around 3k rpm and doesn't run out of puff at high rpm.
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The R32 crank might be the way to go, I really don't know if it becomes an issue or not. I would have thought a torque plate would be a good idea I don't know what cams would be best, weather off the shelf or a custom grind.
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It's...........ALIVE!! Filled it up with coolant at approx a 40-50% mix and installed my NGK BKR7E spark plugs gapped at .026". I attached the stock intake pipe with the original MAF housing removed and taped on my 4" MAF housing, cranked over to build up some oil pressure and it fired into life. Idle was rough and after a minute or two of running, it threw a code of random/intermittent misfire and misfire on cylinder 4, I was hoping it wasn't the injector wiring since that means I would have had to take the intake manifold off again. I swapped coil pack 4 and 2, problem was still there
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Managed to get a little bit more done today, first thing was to make up my wastage dump/screamer pipe, I also added a little stainless tab at the bottom that bolts to one of the sump bolts. This should take some stress out of the system but since the tab is thin it should't create a bind if something wants to move around or expand with heat. It vents straight down by the drivers side wheel, should be pretty loud With that finished, I then could put on the intake manifold since that would have majorly restricted my access to the wastage. ] Then I attached all of the electrical connectors
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Stock internals I believe are good for 500bhp but you want to be much past that. Just some info. 2.8 block is stronger than the 3.2, best to keep the bore sizes as small as you can. Stoking might work well but the engine is already under square so the stroke is longer than the bore diameter so with high rpm you could have problems with excessive piston speed and rod angle. I believe that when people build a 3.0 engine, by boring the 2.8 block and using the standard crank. Also cranks from a mk5 golf are cast and not forged if I remember correctly. I've got a build thread for approx 500bhp ju
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Did some work on it today, first was to modify the heat shield so that it would clear the turbo compressor housing outlet and the wastegate. A bit of guess work and some careful grinding sorted that. Then I had to move one of the coolant hard pipes that is attached to the heat shield so that it would clear everything. Here is how it came out I then made up the turbo oil feed and coolant lines. Turbo oil feed uses a M10x1mm banjo at the oil filter housing, I used -4 teflon line with a black PVC coating for an OEM stealth look and at the turbo end I used a 7/16"x24 stainless banjo with a b
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I don't think it will collapse but I think metal looks so much better than long silicone runs. 7" though should be okay in silicone though
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Some parts from www.turbodynamics.co.uk arrived today. A genuine Garrett dual ball bearing GT3582R with a .82 exhaust housing and a Tial 38mm wastage with a 1 bar spring (all they had). Decided to go with the Genuine turbo since I am doing everything correctly, why skimp out on probably the most important part. I know lots of people do get them to work fine, I decided against it on a daily driven road car. I'll get the drain, feed and water lines done in the next few days. After that it's just routing some 4" intake piping between my MAF housing and turbo, intercooler pipes and weld up a sc
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Thanks, it's been in the planning for a little while. I'm only 21 and a motorsport engineering student so I am trying to do this on a budget but making sure I buy the right stuff so I encounter as little problems as possible. Being able to do all the welding and spannering myself has saved me thousands already!
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More progress For torquing the cam chain sprockets, they are torque to 44 ft/lbs (if I remember right) and then 90 degrees, so I made this little paper disk that has 90 degree lines and sits over the bolt head, mark where one of the lines meets the cam sprocket, then tighten the bolt until the next line lines up with your mark. I got my turbo drain fitting welded into my sump. I used a -10 AN aluminium weld on fitting, some black hose fittings and some stainless braided teflon line, all purchased through Torques on eBay who have an amazing selection of fittings etc. and great service.
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Got some more done today! Head and block surfaces were cleaned of all remaining gasket material and then wiped over with degreaser. When I stripped down my engine, I noticed that to get the cam locking tool to slot into the cams, the engine had to be rotated approx 5mm past TDC. I wanted to know if the TDC mark on the front pulley was correct, so I used a dial test indicator zeroed at maximum piston height on cylinder 1. I then rotated the engine backwards until the piston dropped 0.01" and marked where the notch in the front pulley was. Then rotated the engine forwards past TDC until
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Well, got my R36 coated connecting rod bearings and ARP bolts installed, all went well and was pretty easy. Hardest part was keeping everything clean so that the rod bearings sit correctly in the rods. Messed up on my first bearing, there is a number 22 on my rod cap, so I checked another rod to see which way it should be facing, little did I know that they alternate for each rod, so that locked my crank solid, rotated the cap and it was all good, with that piece of knowledge the other 5 went fine. I did have some engine assembly lube, but I used engine oil instead since it isn't a dry block a
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That's heavily leaded I think so I believe spark plug corrosion is an issue
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It isn't detecting knock on gear changes (heard it happening on some EVO's and subarus) and retarding your ignition timing is it? can you check knock count using VCDS?
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UPDATE: Got my head off today, all went pretty good except for finding some rust on a couple of my cam lobes, not too happy about that but I'm picking up a another pair of used cams tomorrow. Spacer plate, United Motorsports flashed ECU, 630cc injectors and 4" MAF housing, ARP head bolts and ARP rod bolts have arrived. Bores look in very good condition, still see crosshatch marks. I was surprised to see very little carbon on the piston tops which was nice. Head with spacer should be back on by Sunday.
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Do you have a diverter valve or blow off valve? if you have a diverter valve, do you have it recirculating back into the turbo inlet after the MAF?
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It certainly looks very nice, from what I can read it is good and thick tube, not the cheap thin ones you usually see. Not sure if anyone has tried it though, like you say everyone seems to use cast logs and does good with them
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They will be, in the 2nd, 3rd or 4th bend out of my turbo, depending on space and how I route my wastage dump
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4Motion - Great start to the new year
dave_424 replied to BenCarson's topic in Syncro, R32 and 4motion
Don't know if you got this sorted or not, but is it something to do with the transfer box you had replaced having a different ratio? I know the rear wheels shouldn't be locked most of the time but could be a possibility, weirder things have happened -
No purging on mine, don't think it will be a problem, I've got quite a lot of stainless sugar-ing going on but not worried about it, I don't think anyone really purges downpipes, yes I would do it on a turbo manifold to stop bits breaking off and hurting the turbine wheel but the stuff in the downpipe will just fly out the back haha. It's looking like the easiest location will be between the third and fourth bend coming from the turbo, but might wait until I have the wastegate screamer pipe sorted to make sure nothing interferes with each other
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Thanks guys I welded up the exhaust today, only thing left to do is weld in the lambda sensor bosses. I'm trying to decide where is best to put them, On the stock setup they are about 16" away from the head, which puts them in the first 90 degree bend coming out of the turbo. That location would be rather ideal since there is some room for them around the brake master cylinder. I'll try and speak to United Motorsports and see if I need to use both lambda sensors or just one. Also got to add another boss for my wideband. Can anyone with a turbo R32/VR6 tell me where their lambda sensors
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I would say 300bhp is unachievable realistically whilst staying NA, you could spend thousands on bigger cams, bigger valves, higher rpm limit and still make less than 270bhp. Get a supercharger kit, it will end up cheaper than extensive NA mods and make more power than you want. Also a high bhp NA will sacrifice a lot of lower end torque and not be very nice to drive
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I've also heard of people using the Audi A8 MAF housing but don't know the size of it. I'm getting my 4" MAF housing from United Motorsports through The Phirm, its £100+VAT which is steep but they are nice shiny aluminium. Also i'm getting the UM tune which is made for that MAF housing so it makes sense
