dave_424
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Everything posted by dave_424
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Hi guys, not so long ago I brought my new project car, It's a 2002 V6 4motion with the BDE engine that I am currently turbocharging. The build consists of: Engine2.8 V6 4motion engine code BDEStandard pistons and conrodsHead spacer ARP head studsARP connecting rod boltsStock inlet manifoldSachs 4 puck sintered clutch FuelingStock fuel railStock fuel linesInline Walbro 255 fuel pump630cc injectors Induction4” MAF housing Stock MAF sensor2.5” intercooler pipes450mmx227mmx65mm bar and plate intercooler Turbo/ExhaustGT35 turbo, .82 AR exhaust housingT3 cast exhaust manifold Tial 38mm waste
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Thank you very much for the reply, basically I'm going to try my china GT35 but I don't have high hopes for it so looking at finding somewhere lined up to buy from when it starts to go wrong. If you can also get the EFR then a quote on that too would be nice, something comparable to a GT35 with a .82 or 1.06 turbine housing. The build is to run up to about a bar of boost and be somewhere around 450bhp. Seems like it will be just over a grand then if this turbo decides to blow up.
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Sorry to hijack, how much for a T3 Garrett GT3582 ball bearing, .82 exhaust housing 4" inlet compressor housing, v-band 3" exhaust housing outlet?
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Yes, but an exhaust housing that boosts below 3k on a 2.8 engine will be restrictive in the high RPM's. Yes it can hold boost up to red line but it can act as a flow restriction. It can also cause large turbo manifold exhaust pressure and high EGT's. It will probably be fine but a GT35 turbo with a .82 or 1.06 exhaust housing will have more high rpm power
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People say keep it under 500bhp/torque and you are okay on stock rods and pistons, but if thats where the limit is, I would want to be a bit below that. Can you not get a larger exhaust housing so that the turbo spools later. A turbo that reaches full boost at 3k could easily be restrictive at high RPM
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What turbo are you going to use? From what I've seen most vr6 turbo's spool between 3 and 4k. My build is using a GT35 with the .82 exhaust housing should spool around 3500rpm, aiming for 450bhp+ on 12-15psi of boost All I'm doing for engine internals are decompression plate, ARP head studs and ARP rod bolts. I'm expecting all my bits within the next few weeks and hope to be finished in about 5 weeks, I'll post up a build log sometime of my build experience
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With what I'm assuming the 02A gearbox, torque will be your enemy. If you can get that turbo for cheap then I would get it and try it out, if you don't like the lag then just buy either a .82 or .63 housing and put that on it. No difference other than lag between a .82 and 1.06 other than the 1.06 allowing more exhaust gas flow which allows for more power. The people who prefer 1.06 are definitely making over 400bhp, but with the longer lag that comes with it should be more gentle on your gearbox. The GT35r and 1.06 on low boost will definitely work, but turbos have an efficiency range of
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That turbo is really for 600bhp or more and the 1.06 turbine housing will give you some unneeded lag. The best one for your power level would probably be a GT30, however the quick spool will give you a torque spike that might be harsh on components. I am doing the exact engine internals that you list and I'm looking to be somewhere in the 400s (24v engine) and I've got a GT35 with the .82 housing which should give full boost at around 3.5k rpm and allow me to turn it up to 500+ If you are 100% staying around 350 I would say a GT30 or GT35 with a .63 housing, 400+ go for a GT35 with the .82
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Well it certainly LOOKS good, nice, thick hoses with different coloured layers. looks well constructed so you'll just have to rely on the shapes being correct. For around £50 I would buy one for myself of they did them for the mk4
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One thing also is that a turbo is actually pretty rod friendly, its generally always in compression on every stroke since its always pushing against a pressure, even on the exhaust stroke. Whereas a high bhp NA motor has the rods being in compression and tension constantly switching which gives them a bit of a harder time
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I was wondering that for my current build, looked around and most people seemed to suggest using the water pipes on the throttle body
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The threads are M18x1.5mm Look on Ebay for "lambda sensor bung" and you will find what you're looking for Dave
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Flow is a more important figure than pressure, 15psi on a big turbo will produce more power than 15psi on a small turbo. FACT
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I'm just starting a fairly simple build but I have the 24v engine, decompression plate, 550cc injectors, united motorsport ecu chip, sachs paddle clutch and a GT35 turbo. I looked around and most people like the GT35 turbo
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Your problem is 100% caused by that vent to atmosphere BOV, what happens is that the ecu has fuel calculated for that air that you are dumping to atmosphere and not going through your engine so your engine goes pig rich when you stop after a bit of boosting and cuts out. The simple fix is just to get rid of it and run without any type of valve, but what's recommended is get a recirculating blow off valve and plumb the outlet of the BOV into the turbo inlet pipe after the Maf
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Yep looks like a vent to atmosphere blow off valve. @United Motorsport, I have been trying to get hold of you about software etc. for a turbo golf v6 4motion I am building, sent a couple of emails through your website. Let me know if there is a better way of contacting you Dave
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I would be very interested in a tricked version, I don't want to register my vag-com since it can only be registered one 1 or 2 computers and i'm constantly changing laptops or re-installing operating systems. So I have downloaded VCDS lite from rosstech and have a cheap cable, I can scan and clear codes and also access some of the measuring blocks, datalog etc. but not everything. I need the full version to check my timing chain stretch
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Is your diverter valve working correctly? if it is not working correctly or is venting to atmosphere it will cause the exact problem you are having
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I feel like the fact that it doesn't start with the maf is the problem, obviously that's a major problem that should be sorted before looking at anything else. Can you check a maf reading with vcds by blowing through the maf?
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We'll I was thinking of mouning the turbo in the centre of the block at the back, I want top mount for the cool looks but also for maintenance etc. However if I do relocate the battery to the boot and get rid of the stock air box, there is a massive amount of room there that a turbo could populate, I'll be pulling my bumper off again tomorrow to check intercooler figment and pipe routing to get all the boost pipes and intercooler ordered and will check other possibilities intake manifold and turbo position
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The stock manifold might just be in the way, depends on where the turbo is positioned. I had thought that the clutches were expensive, oh well it's going to need it
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I have also read that the stock plastic intake manifold can explode with big boost, I think that around 15psi will get me the power that I want. Coil on plug for me
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Hello guys, I just picked up a 2002 golf mk4 4motion with the 2.8 24v engine. The engine has 106k miles and full service history and I plan on sticking a turbo on it and aiming for 400bhp. I've built a turbocharged 900cc bike engine that managed 225bhp at 15psi of boost so I know the general ins and outs of a turbo conversion, but would like to ask some more vr6 specific questions. The plan is: GT3582 turbo t3 .82AR Intercooled Head spacer to get me to 9:1 Head studs Rod bolts Main studs (are these necessary?) Obviously all the other smaller things but those are the main points. So I h
