markhaywardbailey

Is this still for sale ? Where are you located thanks mark

Hi might sound simple but are the ht leads good ? Mark

Any codes on the OBD for misfires ?

Maybe it's the fuel pump. Have you tried injection cleaner ?

Hi nick Some things to try Check your fuel pump relay it's a cheap part to replace Check vacuum pipes These are notorious for leaks when engine warm Check your throttle body main pipe as leaks cause a stutter Cheers mark

Hi I had a similar knock on my first vr6 aaa engine. It occurred after I used an engine flush kit. I had many people try to assess it and most mechanics told me it was probably the big end bearing which was causing it. On the vr6 this is obviously a total rebuild and I was advised that it was not worth doing the work. In the end I replaced the whole engine from a donor car ( actually only cost me £100 ) and a garage in Trowbridge swapped it out for 200. One thing to check though is has it got the correct oil ? You might see an improvement by applying oil of a thicker viscosity as I was advise

Yes exactly that it was difficult to detect and only occurred when engine was hot. I went through the same pain using diagnostic tools and no codes were shown, the forums told me to change the maf and crank sensors which I did but made no difference (And changing the crank sensor is fiddly with little access) If you splay the intake pipe check for cracks/ splits or as I did block the end with my hand and put the other over my mouth and give it a good blow see if it leaks Hope this helps Mark

Hi frosty I had exactly the same problem and couldn't work out what was going on . Mk3 vr6 1996 obd2 aaa . Drove to the shops engine up to warm . Got the shopping and when I restarted the engine it would rev then just die. It would restart and then be fine !! I checked and replaced the crank sensor and maf still same problem . Thought I'd take the throttle body off and clean it . I removed the air intake pipe to the throttle body and noticed a very small spilt on the underside in between the concertina . The underside gets hot from the exhaust manifold and the heat was causing the split to ope

Glad you got it sorted I know how frustrating a niggle that can be Mark

Hi Olly had a similar issue on my mk3 vr6 turned out to be the wiring into the maf sensor one of the wires was slightly frayed . As you revved it just pulled the cable slightly when the engine moved and cause the hesitation/stutter you mention . It might be worth just checking that your vacuum pipes are all intact (check the one at the front into the manifold) even a small leak can give you the same symptoms Cheers mark

Pics of my mk3 vr6 and my r32

Hi When you take the lid off the expansion tank after engine is hot is pressure released ? If so you have air trapped in the system. There is a bleed screw at the end of the crack pipe which you can access from under the car at the front. Ultimately if there is a leak in your cooling system it introduces two problems 1. Loss of coolant 2. And what a lot of people don't realise is the ability of air getting into a closed system. Regarding the oil cooler it's quite common for the oil to get into your coolant rather than the coolant getting into your engine and this would explain the white foam .

Just another point to check ....vr6 has an auxiliary water pump which energises when you turn on the ignition . You should hear it whirring away ( it's sited on the right hand side of engine above the gearbox) mine had failed and I had to replace it. Also if your coolant seems to disappear then come back and overflow as mine did for a time then the thermostat could be at fault . I removed the coolant flange got it out and sure enough it did not open when immersed in boiling water . I replaced it with a higher temp rated one and after that I did not have any issues . If you do this job be sure