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reynolds9000

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Everything posted by reynolds9000

  1. reynolds9000
    Updating to help anyone in the future looking for this info. With a 2.5” pulley and dual idler pulley’s, a 59.2” belt will work, and is what I currently have installed but I’ve had to max out the tension adjustability on the blower to get it tight enough. I have not driven the car yet, as I have yet to install the oil pan. I have ordered a 58” belt that I’m going to put on after I get the car running and any bugs worked out. With the 59.2” belt there is easily two to three inches of slack making it super easy to install, but like I said it requires you to max out the tension on the charg
  2. reynolds9000
    Looking for some pictures of what people have done to route the oil return line for a Vortech V2. Is there any way to avoid drilling? I’ll be starting the install soon and need to get this type of thing done in advance so it’s as easy as can be on the day I bolt everything on.
  3. reynolds9000
    I’m trying to get all the information I need prior to installing a Vortech V2 charger on my AAA VR6. The kit I’m getting includes the Vortech diverter valve. Just looking to see if anyone has pictures of their setup and how it is connected? I am still learning about forced induction. My understanding is that a diverter valve is vacuum operated so I’d need to connect vacuum from the intake manifold. Is that correct? My setup would be: air filter, MAF, diverter valve, charger, throttle body. Any pics or useful info is appreciated!
  4. reynolds9000
    Yes, I’m in the USA. I’ve exhausted all those suggestions as they only carry belts for cars that equipped with air conditioning. ECS sells one but it’s $106 and I just can’t justify spending that kind of money on a serpentine belt that should be in the $25-40 range. A part number or just a confirmation on the length would be very helpful if anyone knows.
  5. reynolds9000
    I have found so much conflicting information in my seemingly endless hours searching for a definitive part number/brand. I am looking to install a Vortex V2 Charger with a 2.5” pulley on my AAA VR6. I have deleted air conditioning and need to know what belt to buy. I have read anywhere from 53” to 59” but no one can provide part numbers. Help please!
  6. reynolds9000
    an inch and a half of slack! holy crap I'm surprised it's running at all. sounds like the upper tensioner bolt has completely failed and if you're having misfire issues and you have verified that the camshaft timing is off I would say there is a good chance that with so much slack in the upper chain that the engine has jumped timing and potentially bent a valve or two (or more). at the minimum a compression test is in order to rule out valve train damage. I can't imagine that with so much slack in the upper chain that it didn't make any of the tell-tale noises VR6 timing chains are known to
  7. reynolds9000
    ok thanks anyhow.
  8. reynolds9000
    good work! sounds great
  9. reynolds9000
    try removing the starter and applying 12 volts directly to the solenoid to see if it spins
  10. reynolds9000
    yeah I see what you mean! definitely don't want to go swinging a hammer to violently in that engine bay haha. my opinion is that the starter is suspect. you're getting an audible clunk when you turn on the ignition and the engine turns over freely by hand, which rules out any internal engine issue. probably from sitting for extended periods. you can always swap the guts from a good starter into your chromed starter housing and be good to go
  11. reynolds9000
    I'm interested in the steering wheel if it is decent condition and still available.
  12. reynolds9000
    does not sound like any AAA vr6 harness that I am familiar with. as stated above, for the FCM, there should be a big 4 pin plug and a small 10 pin plug. a picture would be helpful!
  13. reynolds9000
    not trying to be an ass but have you tried tapping it with a hammer? occasionally you get lucky and it will unstick whatever is stuck haha. sounds to me like the starter has gone tits up. It's not too much effort to remove it on these cars thankfully. don't know if the UK has anything similar but here in the USA there are automotive parts stores that will bench test a starter for free to eliminate it as a possibility.
  14. reynolds9000
    would you be willing to ship to the USA?
  15. reynolds9000
    if you want or need it to be a closed loop system then you'll need to have a port welded to the intake pipe. the purpose of the catch can is to eliminate the PCV system so it would counterintuitive to install the catch can but have the vapors recirculated to the intake. personally I would just leave the intake pipe as-is and install a catch can that does not recirculate the vapors
  16. reynolds9000
    a catch can is about as simple as you can imagine. all that is needed is a catch can of your choosing and a rubber hose to attach the catch can to the PCV port on the valve cover. you can improvise a soda can or you can buy a fully fabricated dedicated catch can with venting, etc. another option is to simply put a breather filter on the PCV port itself. makes for some heavy fumes at idle however.
  17. reynolds9000
    I redid my headliner in grey 1/8" foam backed suede. if you have a sunroof you will have to use 1/8" foam as the 1/4" foam will not let the sunroof slide, it's too thick. I used 3M Super 90 spray adhesive. I believe it's in a green can. It's the strongest I could find here in the USA. maybe a better product exists in the UK. once you peal back the old headliner you do not have to scrape the old foam off as long as it is not crumbling. you can glue and lay the fabric over the existing foam. to remove the foam however, I used a wire bristle brush on an electric drill and VERY carefully lightly
  18. reynolds9000
    haha you can change the bolt itself but not the tensioner guide that the bolt presses against. the dowel that the guide attaches do is covered by the lower chain cover even when the upper cover is removed
  19. reynolds9000
    the chains themselves are not likely to break, it is the risk of the chain jumping teeth on the cam sprocket and/or crank shaft that is the most probable and common issue. with the upper timing chain cover removed you can replace the long black upper timing chain guide but that is the only one you have access to unless you remove the lower chain cover which involves removing the transmission, clutch, etc. The noise that is associated with the "bad timing chains" is not caused by the black upper chain guide it's is caused by the metal back plate of the upper chain tensioner scraping against the
  20. reynolds9000
    very nice!
  21. reynolds9000
    just looked at it is a single sided belt. I wouldn't worry
  22. reynolds9000
    if the lifters are sticking slightly it will clean whatever gunk is causing the problem. could just be a case of worn lifters though... simple enough to replace though and pretty cheap too
  23. reynolds9000
    ATF has high levels of detergent additives that clean deposits and prevent sludge, it will not harm an engine when used in proper proportions. you can use less but I would use more than 1 quart. You can also try Sea Foam Engine Treatment if it is available in the UK.
  24. reynolds9000
    this should help: https://sites.google.com/site/stoyneff/miscellaneous/the-vr6-cooling-system
  25. reynolds9000
    I would not recommend oil additives as they have a tendency to create a froth of air bubbles ones circulated through the engine and can ultimately increase friction. a trick that I personally have never used but have read of others having success is draining 1 quart of your engine oil and adding 1 quart of automatic transmission fluid to replace said engine oil. you don't drive it with the ATF in the crank case. allow to idle for 20-30 minutes and listen for your lifters quiet down. drain oil pan and refill with a quality 5w-40 or 0w-40 synthetic.
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