arbroathautospar

Hi looks like yours is not to bad have a look at how much welding I had to do and it's only some of the pictures but worth it when it's done

Some do depends on how they have been serviced but being an older car and with the mods I have done I wasn't taking any chances waterless coolant is the way for any old car I think

Yeah took a lot of work and money but always worth it for that sound and drive .meyle parts are available for them eurocarparts is not bad for price but avoid eBay for modifying parts nothing fits properly another good tip is to do a waterless coolant upgrade stops any chance of overheating I have also put a 50mm alloy rad with twin fans makes a big difference

Hi if you are looking for a vr6 best idea is to make sure that there is no rust under the underseal that vw put on them I bought one that looked good and after peeling everything off it it was totally rotten but was to far in it to back out have a look at some of my pictures and you will see where they go . Everything mechanical for it is readily available for them and after my experience the shell is definitely the most important thing if you want a decent one but you can't find many decent 3 doors without rust for under 2 grand these days certainly in Scotland anyway.

My last pic before it s**t itself [emoji25]

Cheers mate I will give that a try but when I checked power at fuel pump while it wouldn't start the power was there so if the relay was faulty it wouldn't have power at the pump surely?

It runs perfect when cold only appears to be once it has been driven for a while that it cuts out I am thinking the pump is faulty as I have checked the power going to the pump and it's fine after the car has sat for a few hours it starts again

Sorry mine is a 1994 obd1 golf vr6

Cheers guys but plot thickens I went round the town in the car good half hour of driving car was sweet as a nut pulling like a Trojan bogs down a bit at low end (flywheel is too light I was warned ha) but after nipping about came to a roundabout and it cut out and wouldn't start no fuel coming through power at the tank . Left it for 3 hours went to tow it back and it started off the button and drove home sweet did the early obd 1 cars immobiser kill the fuel pump? I have checked the key and doesn't appear to have any transponder in it it also has a laserline alarm which does kill the pump but

Hi guys I have plugged the car in with vagcom and hav got fault code saying engine blocked by immobiser however my car doesn't have an vw immobiser but the original ecu was swapped out for a socketed ecu. The car starts and drives but don't want to go to far in it in case it does the same again would this fault come up as a fault if the ecu has had immobiser defeat done anyone know Cheers

Cheers bud I will give it a check I originally put coilovers on it when I built it but changed them for konis after things started shaking loose wouldn't suprise me to find that something has ce loose in the tank haha

I have put a6 branch manifold mated to a full milltek decat Cda carbon airbox l/balanced flywheel stage 2 clutch 50mm alloy rad silicone hose set Done away with original intake to manifold Replaced everything with silicone as I say it was going like a train I thought the fuel pump had gone but it's now working all tho changes pitch on idle only thing I haven't replaced on it[emoji23]

Nah it's obd 1 with a socketed ecu which was in before the mods need to have a new chip done was told it was a stealth chip but don't know