Timothy_Ellis

As in pressure at the bleeder valve? Sorry I’m new to this style of slave. I have a new CNC bleeder block from ecs almost here so I’m holding off til it gets here.

When I did my swap the line wasn’t disconnected long, so this wasn’t an issue. Now that I’ve got it back together after doing my chains, I can’t seem to get the air out of the slave cylinder. Any tips?

My vr has been sitting since May. My fuel pump went bad. Lucky me I had a spare.

Curious to know if it works for you.

That’s fair.

I’m saying the circuit for the ignition goes from switch to fuel pump to starter solenoid. Not the door.

Does it ever kick off while driving?

Not 100 on that as I’ve never had a door module go bad.

Uh as far as I know, (yes opening the door primes the pump) the door won’t keep it from running. But losing the brain of the operation surely will keep your pump from kicking on.

If it still does it, could be bad ecu or could be power loss by short, I’d check all your loom out of the waterfall and underneath your battery tray, look for any exposed or cracked wires. I’d check every thing I could and make sure all of your wires and stuff are good before spending cash on a new ecu.

If it still does it, in the cowl panel there are a few grounds. Check all of them are ok and clean.

Check the fuse for it. Clear the code.

If you have nothing HELPFUL to say, get off my post.

Wrong. You know you can heat soak spark plugs and cause it to pre-ignite? And too weak of plugs can cause carbon deposits?

Just because you're running 20psi doesn't mean you aren't missing something.