tuffty
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Everything posted by tuffty
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Some more progress today.... after the issues I had with the pattern part sump the only thing left to do was to mod the OE sump and hope this would weld better Removed the boss on the sump and drilled a suitably sized hole... ...and thankfully the OE sump welded fine So fitted that back on the engine and went to the next job... Next job was to remove the NA exhaust manifolds and downpipe... I ended up having to cut the downpipe to remove it (won't be using it again anyway)... ...leaving
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Today.... almost 2 years since I got the car home from the initial engine swap.... this happened!... ....yep, the turbo is going on at last... Big shout out to Bill at Badger 5 for finding me a bit of ramp time so I could crack on... and crack on I did... first job as you will have seen was to drop the sump... this was so I could fit the ACL big end bearings (same ones I used in my 20v) and ARP rod bolts... the shells that came out were in pretty good shape considering the engine had done 100k miles... I us
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So after much deliberation and anxiety induced sleep loss I am now looking at option 3 as the winner!! LOL... The main reason being this is the less likely route to compromising the existing cooling flow... So... found this diagram which helps visualise the coolant flow a bit better... VR6... ...vs the 20v... The 20v turbo cooling flow takes engine temp coolant and flows back through the after run pump to the top of the rad.... The VR6 after run pump however seems to take the 'cooled' coolant from the rad and circulates that... I don't
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One small headache has been trying to work out where to run the coolant lines for the turbo... as per usual with anything VR turbo related the info is a little thin on the ground so after spending a bit of time researching and looking over the VR6 cooling system flow diagram and exploded parts diagram for the Mk1 TT 3.2 (as thats where the engine and pipework is from) I have 3 possibilities!! So... the standard flow diagram... (this is essentially for a Mk1 TT 3.2) ..and the key to the components... Coolant hose connection diagram 1 - Radiator 2 - Non-return val
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Bit more done today... The exhaust mani is designed for a 2 bolt 38mm wastegate which I feel is a bit on the small side so after the 38mm to 44mm adaptor was welded on it appears that it smaller than 38mm anyway!... So I ported it... Next I gave the mani a blast in the aqua blast cabinet... ...and painted it (obvs!!) I don't expect this to last very long tbh but the heat shield has held out so far and that will be going back on (modded to suit) to cover it up so its more because I can
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Bit more tinkering of parts while 'off' the car... the cold side outlet is pretty close to the exhaust manifold and not the best for longevity of any silicon joiner.... So knowing this was an issue I grabbed a 45 deg alloy fitting from the e of the bay... Bit of prep to make sure the welds would penetrate... ...and... Sadly the sump didn't go quite as well... Finest chinesium at its best it seems and the welds were pulling all sorts of 'stuf
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Few more things sorted in readiness... Mocked up the turbo again to measure up the oil feed line... I am using an inline filter as there is no outlet on the VR filter housing as standard... I plan to take the feed off the back of the oil pressure t-piece however this is in fact the non filtered side of the housing... others have welded on a fitting to the filtered side of the housing which does work but I also have an adaptor to feed from the chain tensioner... the issue with that it seems is that typically you need a 'longer' plunger in the tensioner to compensate and H
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A little more progress... while waiting for a bit of space in the workshop I wanted to get a few odds and sods sorted so I could hit the ground running... I dug out my collection of alloy pipes... The old intake from the 20v and pipes left over to make the new top charge pipe... and on that subject the plan will be to run this from the turbo down the gearbox side as there is a bit more room there and will hook up to where I have run the intercooler pipework.. Next task was to check out the oil drain position in the sump... using a modded MAP sensor boss (one
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Had a few more bits turn up last week... as I have been debating over what to do with the transfer box issue I bagged an R32 transfer box so I could at least work out if there is any point modding the gearbox to take the TT one... On the face of it they look the same but... there are a couple of subtle differences... one being the overall length of the through shaft to the right hand drive cup... there is about 10mm difference which of course changes the amount of engagement to the diff once fitted... this suggests that if I leave the box unmodded then the R32 transfer box would be
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One subject I would like to touch on that I feel is important for anyone reading this revolves around the ECU I am using.... back when I was running the 1.8t I was on the OE ME7.5 ECU using a MAF sensor... this was fine for the early stages of the cars development but when I rebuilt the engine into a stroker with the GT3582r the limitations or running a MAF and the OE ECU became very apparent... At the time the alternatives were either very limited on features or stupidly expensive... at the time I was having real issues with cruising in so much that I was running a fairly short 10
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Gearbox turned up this week... Needs a clean (and some paint obvs!) but overall looks in good nick Offered up the transfer box in the hope it would fit.... and it did!... sorta!!!!... on first look it seems to line up perfectly and even turns when you spin the input shaft... ....but! B*gger!... doesn't quite seat in properly I had a look at the gearbox that came with the engine... it was immediately obvious what the issue was... Transfer box mounts on the Mk5 R32 DSG box... ..vs the ones o
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At the beginning of last year my mate moved to a larger unit and swapped his dyno from a 2wd to an awd... this was just before lockdowns from the initial covid outbreak came into force thankfully so it seemed like a good idea to help christen the dyno and get a baseline run for the car... My mate has since built a dyno cell around this to manage the noise but you get the idea Bare in mind that the engine is running a spacer with 8.9:1 CR, no VVT enabled on the map as we needed to test a few things to get it set up and then translate the OE map over to at least ge
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As mentioned in a previous post I had a small issue with the fans and the aircon... I went to get the system gassed up which appeared to go fine... no leaks etc but... the air wasn't getting fantastically cold... It was then that I noticed the smell that indicated the magical blue smoke was escaping from something... it was one of the radiator fans... one of my brand new radiator fans!!!.. it seems it was touching the aircon flexi hose which of course I hadn't noticed when I initially put the front of the car back together boooo... I was fairly convinced that the
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The DRP gear box is similar to the earlier 02M boxes and has a taper bearing to support the input shaft... these don't suffer the same issues the later 02M and 02Q boxes have with the input shaft bearing... The R32 02M is on the left here and the DRP on the right... Before actually fitting the gear box I felt it was a good idea to just check it out for wear and any issues with the selector forks (an achilles heel of the 02M)... so I split the box... Looks fairly normal for an 02m box tbh... I pulled the internals out for a closer look and to cle
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And so begins the first real pain felt during this conversion... The clutch pedal itself bled up fine, but when depressing the pedal there was no feel at all and it just felt like the clutch was simply not disengaging and to top it all the pedal would randomly stick down... it was as this point that I went and double checked the LuK part numbers only to find that while I had an R32 self adjusting clutch I had a 4-motion DMF designed for a non self adjusting clutch... in fact the same clutch as is fitted to the 1.8t's as it turns out!.. The offending items!! Sooooo
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Now that the engine had run I started to put the rest of the car back together... Due to the VR engine leaning forward rather than back like the 20v I had to extend and faff with the power steering hoses a bit... This did not do everything I needed clearance wise but was good enough to allow me to cable tie the hose out of the way of the alternator pulley... I actually have 4-motion PS hoses to fit soon so hopefully that will sort it properly I finished off the coolant hoses too... had to order a few that I was missing from TPS but I simplified the ho
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For reference this is what I threw together to make sense of what I needed to do to alter the TT loom to work... it wasn't loads to be honest as Ignitron is an ME7 plug and play solution and the TT 3.2 uses ME7 too as standard... ECU TT 3.2 DSG loom small plug mappings... 14 pin plug mappings... IECU input mappings... IECU output mappings... Obviously don't take this as gospal as there are subtle differences across the VAG range and across years on the same vehicles This is the result of me buzzing o
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The TT's loom wasn't going to be a straight swap as expected so after a bit of research and comparing pinouts between the S3 1.8t and the TT VR6 I arrived at this as a work in progress I removed stuff I didn't need like SAI, inlet flap control and the PCV valve and added in the wires I needed for the N75 valve, MAP and IAT sensors... I also ran the wires for a second MAP sensor that will be used by the ColorMFA I have in my dash for boost along with the wires for the fuel and oil pressure sensors... N75 shares 12v with the VVT on the S3 so tapped off that for the
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Thanks dude... appreciated.... So now the the engine is coming back together there are a couple of other little jobs to do to get it all ready... I drilled and tapped the mount hole for the dipstick tube.. I knew that it wouldn't line up but there was only one place that made sense to drill it as anywhere else would have gone through to the plenum... So modded the mount tab to suit... Painted the tube (obvs) and pulled the top away from the plenum for a little extra clearance Nice... now for the throttle body... while th
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So by now the head has returned back... the guides were perfect by all accounts which was a nice surprise as every 20v head over 50k seems to need at least exhaust guides (turbo + heat etc) and only needed the meerest kiss to resurface... First off... lapping the inlet valves... Then the Supertech exhaust valves... these are single groove collets which are generally better for high revving and cammed setups but tbh its all Supertech do for the VR6 it seems which is fine as the 20v had a full supertech valvetrain including springs and titanium re
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So while waiting for the head to come back I turned my attention so some other jobs.... the inlet manifold I bought was not the best casting in the world and on inspection I noticed it was in fact full of casting sand!!!... not the best really... I did try the usual hot wash/aqua blast process to see if it would shift it but tbh I could not risk there being any chance of sand getting into the engine sooooo... ...I cut it in half The casting sand is pretty obvious... So this time at least I could get into all the nooks and crannies with the aqua
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The BHE engine came with a transfer box and DQ250 DSG box but the mechatronic unit had been removed so it was pretty much useless to me... I got the engine onto a stand... I am aware that there is a bracket available to fit the engine sideways on but the stand in use is a bit of a monster and only complained a little bit under the weight The inside of the engine looked fairly typical for what was no doubt the longlife service schedule in play here... Not a big worry tbh as I was stripping and cleaning it all anyway... first up was the cam cover..
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Hi all... I have owned my S3 for nearly 13 years so far and she has been through a few transformations modding wise... started with the usual, mapping and suspension etc... moved on to a relatively basic GT3071 install (still on the original engine but with rods etc) and then built a full on 2ltr stroker with tubular manifold and GT3582r which ended up with 620hp, 440ftlbs.. Sadly a failed H beam rod ended my 20v's reign of terror... ..and rather than go to another expensive rebuild of what will still be a highly strung engine at the levels of power it was at I dec
