Help understanding why new motor does not want to run

[hifidelity 7]

Hi everyone,

 

My 2 year long build is finally complete but not quite running yet, some history;

 

Car has not driven since 2003, in fact I have yet to drive a car I've owned for 2 years haha. Purchased from original owner, had transmission rebuilt including Quaife LSD, upgraded my suspension, brakes, etc. etc.

 

Motor: New build that was a slow project I did in my garage at home. It is a 3.0L block w/ Arrow forged rods, new bearings, new hardware, Wossner 83.5mm 11:1 Pistons (boohoo no turbo  ) p&p head & 264/260 cams.

 

The original plan was 3.0 8:1 CR Turbo build so Tec 3 standalone was wired up but ultimately I decided this will be a daily driven car so out went the turbo and in came the high CR pistons and no more standalone so I replaced the entire engine harness as it was cut to accommodate standalone. Now it's a OBD1 Coilpack by the way.

 

Problem: when it came time to fire her up I realized that my fuel pump was dead (in 12 years fuel turns to varnish) so I bought a new fuel pump and that worked, now I had no spark, I began to test the alarm wiring, ECU wiring, etc. and somehow for no apparent reason it fired up, the engine ran for 5 minutes and shut off, fired it up again and this time it ran for 1 more minute and shut off and that was it, would not fire up again. I highly doubt it's the motor because it still spins & cranks freely, even when it was hot right after it shut off so it's not rings or anything binding mechanically. Now I went back to the electrical and low & behold, no more spark again. I've tested with 2 separate ignition switches and have a 3rd (new) arriving in the mail today. I have tested the resistance on the crank sensor and the reading was 535 ohm, ECU relay still sending power to ECU, I am receiving 12+ & Ground at the coilpack, fuel injector plug shows a pulsing signal, Ground from battery to transmission mount, ECU grounded at the head, terminals clean. I am completely baffled now & can't understand why every test I've done checks out but still no spark.

 

My only hope at this moment is to try the new ignition switch tonight or tomorrow and swap the coilpack next. Any ideas are welcome, it's quite frustrating to have a completely new build that won't start 

 

This is the ugly booger in question (pardon the mess):

 

Hard to believe it's a new car under that ugliness isn't it? haha

Edited March 11, 2015 by hifidelity

[Sump_slammer 23]

Have you checked the coil pack is switching and the edu is sending a pulse to the coil to switch to earth? if it isn't then check the wiring back to the ecu if thats ok then maybe your edu is faulty if your injectors are pulsing because the crank sensor is giving a signal.

[Big J 283]

Is try a replacement known good coilpack before swapping the ignition barrel. The key reader and transponder is all working properly I take it?

[hifidelity 7]

Hi, swapped coil pack and the beast fired up then purred like a kitten which made me very happy and much less nervous.

 

I do still have problems;

 

Car begins to hesitate and idle very rough once warmed up and out of cold start, this is accompanied by a rough clunking sound coming from the bell housing but while it runs smoothly this sound is not there, also when I press the clutch the noise goes away so either i did not tighten all the bolts on the pressure plate or my throw out bearing is dead but this is not a concern, I can remove the transmission and fix this issue in one day.

 

My concern is with the engine not running properly, I did a scan and this is the outcome;

 

6 Faults Found:
01259 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17) 31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermitten
00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 10-10 - Adaptation Limit Not Reached - Intermittent
00561 - Mixture Adaptation 14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded
00758 - Secondary Air Injection System (AIR) 31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 03-00 - No Signal Readiness: N/A

Had the fuel pump relay & coilpack unplugged right before I fired it up so I can prime oil pump, also I unplugged the MAF while it was running to see if it ran any different (suspecting bad MAF) so technically these are the codes I'm concerned with:

00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 10-10 - Adaptation Limit Not Reached - Intermittent
00561 - Mixture Adaptation 14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded
00758 - Secondary Air Injection System (AIR) 31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

SAI has been deleted but solenoid is still plugged in, I thought this would prevent having 00758, no?

 

I did a search on these codes over at ross-tech.com and these are my findings;

 

00533;

Possible Causes
Air Leak between Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and Engine
Injector(s) faulty
Fuel Pressure Regulator faulty
Throttle Body faulty
Intake Air Filter dirty

00561;
Possible Causes
Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) faulty
Fuel Pressure too Low
Leaks in Intake Air System and/or Exhaust System
Injector(s) faulty (i.e. coked)

After reading some threads from people who had these same codes I decided to check for air leaks first then I'm swapping both ISV & MAF, I have a new MAF (not sure why I didn't install the new one to begin with) I highly doubt it's the injectors, fpr, T-Body or Air filter since it runs perfect in cold start. Hopefully I can get it resolved this week so I can go on a drive & see if it throws these codes again.

 

Any other ideas? I want to minimize all the time the engine is idling still since I need to break-in my piston rings properly   

Edited March 24, 2015 by hifidelity

[Bealieboy 1,625]

When starting from cold, the engine runs in closed loop, which is basically a default ecu setting for the purpose of cold starting.

Once up to approx 80degs the car then starts running off its sensors. One of your sensors is buggered. The noise you're hearing is probably the release bearing, that's most likely only due to the poor running though, off balance etc. Water temp sensor will apparently throw a number of other codes due to the engine not fueling correctly once up to temp, this in turn will most likely throw a lambda code. Not sure if that helps at all?